Bisbee strikes it rich: through good and bad times, the Arizona copper town has always tapped a mother load of character - includes a Bisbee travel planner

Sunset, March, 1999 by Matthew Jaffe

Brigham Young, among others, may disagree with that conclusion. But you hear Shriver's assessment echoed a lot here. The town's very imperfections - its unplanned planning, its mix of the grand and the grimy, its lack of theme park polish - give it a character that a lot of people long for, especially as many other historic towns have come to resemble each other.

But how will Bisbee handle being loved by more and more people drawn to it by the very character that thrived in isolation?

Gallery owner Jane Hamilton offers one formula when she describes the process of finding a location for her business. "I fell in love with the building," she says. "It already looked like an art gallery. And I just asked myself, 'What can I do to not ruin this?'"

That seems to be the question the rest of Bisbee's residents should keep asking themselves.

RELATED ARTICLE: BISBEE TRAVEL PLANNER

Bisbee makes an easy side trip from Tucson; an overnight stay will give you more time to explore along the way. At 5,300 feet, the town gets four seasons, so be prepared. Area code is 520 unless noted. The Bisbee Visitor Center (7 Main St.; 432-5421) offers guides and other general information. A good personal account of Bisbee and southeastern Arizona is Going Back to Bisbee, by Richard Shelton (University of Arizona Press, Tucson, 1992; $16.95 paperback; 800/426-3797).

ATTRACTIONS

BISBEE MINING & HISTORICAL MUSEUM. Great spot for background on the town; large collection of minerals and gems mined in area. 5 Copper Queen Plaza; 10-4 dally; $4 ages 17 and over; 432-7071.

BREWERY GULCH. Once-rowdy district just north of Main is still home to two historic taverns.

LAVENDER PIT VIEW POINT. Huge open pit mine has an overview 1 mile south of downtown on State 80.

QUEEN MINE TOURS. An inside look at the mine and its history and operations; historic district tours are also available. 432-2071 for reservations.

WALKING TOUR. The visitor center offers a walking guide to Bisbee. Take on the many staircases that lead up the hills, and stop by the historic courthouse to see its art deco doors, copper murals, and miner statue.

DINING

CAFE ROKA. Upscale italian food in historic building; one of the town's best. 35 Main; 432-5153.

IT'S THE HOT SPOT. Local favorite for burritos in an old service station. 203 Tombstone Canyon; 432-3256.

QUARTER MOON COFFEEHOUSE. In boho Bisbee, with Internet access and a hip crowd. 1 OK St.; 432-9088.

GALLERIES AND SHOPS

FIREHOUSE GALLERY. A beautiful gallery showing the work of many prominent artists, including noted Arizonan Fritz Scholder. 18 Maxfield Ave.; 432-1224.

HUNTING CROW. Good bet for distinctive jewelry. 50 Main; 432-7757.

JANE HAMILTON FINE ART. Wide selection of works, many by local artists. 29 Main; (800) 555-3051.

LODGING

COPPER QUEEN HOTEL. Venerable hotel with old mining-town flavor and a memorable saloon and dining room. Many of the guest rooms were recently renovated. From $70. 11 Howell Ave.; (800) 247-5829.

HIGH DESERT INN. Historic police station converted into a modern five-room inn with custom furniture, original artwork, and a fine country French restaurant. From $70. 8 Naco Rd.; (800) 281-0510.