Cornbread, as you like it - includes recipes

Sunset, March, 1999 by Elaine Johnson

Savory or sweet, plain or flavored - it aims to please

With the zeal of politicians, some people insist that cornbread should be dense and straightforward, with a modicum of sweetness. Others find virtue in the tenderness and rich browning that a little more sugar gives the bread. Once you've cast your vote, savory or sweet is but a steppingstone to further adventures with this simple stir-and-bake quick bread. Vary the forms of cornmeal, from stone-ground to polenta, for a surprising range of flavors and textures. Then use herbs, spices, chilies, and cheeses to add even more personality. Note: At high altitudes, cornbreads with additions that increase the moisture content, such as the "double red" and basil-parmesan recipes at right, may take 15 to 20 minutes longer to bake.

Savory or Sweet Cornbread

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 35 minutes

NOTES: For bread that is sweeter and more tender, use the largest measure of sugar.

MAKES: 9 servings

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup yellow cornmeal

2 tablespoons or 1/3 cup sugar

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 cup buttermilk

About 1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) cooled melted butter or margarine

1. In a bowl, mix flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, beat eggs to blend with buttermilk and 1/4 cup butter. Pour liquids into flour mixture and stir just until evenly moistened.

2. Scrape batter into a buttered 8-inch square pan and spread smooth.

3. Bake in a 400 [degrees] oven until bread springs back when lightly pressed in the center and begins to pull from pan sides, about 25 minutes (20 minutes in a convection oven).

4. Cut bread into squares. Lift from pan with a slender spatula. Serve hot or cool.

Per serving: 196 cal., 35% (68 cal.) from fat; 5.1 g protein; 7.5 g fat (4.1 g sat.); 27 g carbo (1.2 g fiber); 431 mg sodium; 64 mg chol.

Vary-the-Corn Bread. Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (preceding), but instead of yellow cornmeal, use 1 cup polenta, dehydrated masa flour (corn tortilla flour), or stoneground cornmeal (see following).

Per serving: 251 cal., 27% (67 cal.) from fat; 6.4 g protein; 7.4 g fat (4.1 g sat.); 39 g carbo (3.5 g fiber); 431 mg sodium; 64 mg chol.

Purchase stone-ground cornmeal, which includes the germ (for nuttier flavor), at health food stores, or order from Giusto's Specialty Foods, (650) 873-6566; a 2-pound bag costs $1.44 plus shipping.

Double Red Cornbread, Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (at left), adding 1 tablespoon hot or sweet Hungarian paprika or regular paprika to flour mixture. To egg mixture, add 3/4 cup chopped canned roasted red peppers. Increase baking time to 30 minutes (25 minutes in a convection oven).

Per serving: 203 cal., 33% (68 cal.) from fat; 5.2 g protein; 7.5 g fat (4.1 g sat.); 29 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 453 mg sodium; 64 mg chol.

Basil-Parmesan Cornbread. Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (at left). To egg mixture, add 1 can (8 1/2 oz.) cream-style corn, 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil, and 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese. Increase baking time to 30 minutes (25 minutes in a convection oven).

Per serving: 236 cal., 34% (80 cal.) from fat; 7.4 g protein; 8.9 g fat (5 g sat.); 32 g carbo (1.6 g fiber); 590 mg sodium; 67 mg chol.

Curry Cornbread. Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (at left), adding 1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder to flour mixture.

Per serving: 200 cal., 34% (68 cal.) from fat; 5.2 g protein; 7.6 g fat (4.1 g sat.); 28 g carbo (1.5 g fiber); 432 mg sodium; 64 mg chol.

Southwest Cornbread. Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (at left). To egg mixture, add 1 can (4 oz.) chopped green chilies and 3/4 cup (3 oz.) coarsely shredded jack cheese. Combine 1 tablespoon each sugar and chili powder; sprinkle over batter in pan.

Per serving: 243 cal., 37% (90 cal.) from fat; 7.6 g protein; 10 g fat (5.8 g sat.); 30 g carbo (1.6 g fiber); 567 mg sodium; 74 mg chol.

Habanero Surprise Muffins. Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (at left), completing step 1. Spoon half the batter equally into 12 buttered 2 1/2-inch muffin cups. Top each portion with 2 teaspoons habanero or jalapeno jelly (1/2 cup total). Fill cups equally with remaining batter. Bake in a 400 [degrees] oven until muffins spring back when lightly pressed in center and are lightly browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Makes 12.

Per muffin: 186 cal., 30% (56 cal.) from fat; 3.8 g protein; 6.2 g fat (3.5 g sat.); 28 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 333 mg sodium; 50 mg chol.