Party bites - includes recipes - Spanish dishes for parties

Sunset, Sept, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Spaniards know how to savor life - every delicious morsel of it. Especially in the neighborhood bar, a beloved institution that nourishes the soul as well as the stomach of the community. During the day, regulars stop by for a quick bite and local gossip. At night, families and friends stroll from bar to bar to meet and share appetizers and a drink before going home to a late dinner. It's a progressive happy hour.

Centuries ago the bartenders began placing covers (tapas) over the glasses of wine to keep flies out. Sometimes the cover was a slice of bread, cheese, or chorizo. Customers came to expect a little bite with their drink, and the tradition of tapas was born.

Now Westerners have embraced the tradition. Tapas bars and cafes have sprung up throughout the region. They embody the conviviality of the custom: Eat a little, eat a lot. Choose from a wide range of foods, from olives to marinated clams. And always do it with friends.

This freewheeling nibbling and noshing pattern is a wonderful concept for entertaining at home. Small plates of many foods accommodate all tastes and create the perfect party pace. Most of these dishes can be made ahead. Or, in the spirit of sharing, you can ask each guest to bring one tapa, homemade or purchased.

Honeyed Figs and Serrano Ham on Nut Toast

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes, plus at least 2 hours to marinate

NOTES: This savory concept comes from Heidi Krahling, chef-owner of Insalata's restaurant in San Anselmo, California. Up to 1 day ahead, marinate figs. Up to 1 hour before serving, assemble toasts.

MAKES: 12 appetizers

6 fresh or dried mission figs, rinsed

1/2 cup honey

1 rosemary sprig (about 4 in.) or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/4 pound cabrales (Spanish blue) cheese or other blue cheese, at room temperature

1/4 cup cream cheese, at room temperature

12 slices firm walnut bread (2 by 3 in., 1/2 in. thick), toasted

12 pieces thin-sliced serrano ham or prosciutto (each about 2 by 3 in.; about 2 oz. total)

1. Cut off and discard fig stems. Slice figs in half lengthwise and place in a small bowl.

2. In a 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan, combine honey and 1/3 cup water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add rosemary, reduce heat to medium-high, and boil until reduced to 1/2 cup, 6 to 12 minutes. Discard rosemary. Add vinegar and stir until boiling. Pour over figs. Let stand at least 2 hours, or cover and chill up to 1 day; stir occasionally.

3. In a bowl with a mixer, beat blue cheese and cream cheese until smoothly blended.

4. Spread cheese mixture thickly on toast. Lay 1 slice of ham on each toast.

Drain figs (reserve syrup for another use) and set 1 fig half on each toast.

Per serving: 148 cal., 34% (51 cal.) from fat; 5.6 g protein; 5.7 g fat (3 g sat.); 20 g carbo (1.8 g fiber); 334 mg sodium; 16 mg chol.

Garlic Mushrooms

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 6 hours ahead, keep at room temperature.

MAKES: 12 appetizer servings

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 pound mushrooms (1 1/2- to 2-in.-wide caps), rinsed and drained 3 tablespoons dry sherry 1/4 teaspoon hot chili flakes 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Salt and pepper

1. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over high heat, stir oil, garlic, and mushrooms until garlic is limp, about 2 minutes. Add sherry and chili flakes; cover and simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is evaporated and mushrooms are browned, 7 to 10 minutes.

2. Stir in parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Per serving: 26 cal., 46% (12 cal.) from fat; 0.8 g protein; 1.3 g fat (0.2 g sat.); 2.2 g carbo (0.5 g fiber); 2.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Romesco Sauce

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

NOTES: This recipe was inspired by A Taste of Spain, by Anne Aguilar Santucci (Club Espanol, Rocklin, CA, 1998; $18; 916/488-3044). If making sauce up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill. Sauce also complements grilled beef, pork, poultry, and seafood.

MAKES: 12 appetizer servings

2 tablespoons silvered almonds 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion (1/2 lb.), peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced or pressed 1 ripe tomato (6 oz.), rinsed, cored, and chopped 3/4 cup chopped canned red peppers 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot chili flakes 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar Salt and pepper 12 lamb rib chops (each about 3/4 in. thick and 3 to 4 oz.)

1. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir almonds until golden, about 5 minutes. Whirl nuts in a food processor or blender until finely ground.

2. Add oil, onion, and garlic to pan; stir over high heat until onion is limp, about 3 minutes. Add tomato, red peppers, chili flakes, and vinegar. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is evaporated, 6 to 8 minutes.

3. Stir ground almonds into tomato mixture; add salt and pepper to taste. Pour romesco sauce into a bowl.

4. Rinse lamb and pat dry. Trim and discard excess surface fat. Lay chops on a barbecue grill over a solid bed of hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook, turning once until browned on both sides but still pink in center of thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 10 minutes total. Add salt and pepper to taste.