3-Day Weekend - Pasadena, California

Sunset, March, 2000 by Peter Fish

Paradise in Pasadena

* Raymond Chandler brought me back to Pasadena. I was reading The High Window, not the best known of his Philip Marlowe novels but classic Chandler--a stew of murder and greed. The High Window features one Mrs. Elizabeth Bright Murdock, a Pasadena widow who lives in a mansion so imposing that even detective Marlowe is rattled by its elegance.

Mrs. Murdock is a malign old character, but as presented in Chandler's pages, her mansion and her town are infinitely desirable. As always, Chandler gets the nuances of a Southern California locale dead right--in this case, the green lawns, stillness, and moneyed sense of self-regard that are the very essence of Pasadena.

Great cities are founded on ideals even more than on commerce. And from the start, Pasadena was not merely a place to earn a living but a haven for people attempting wonderful things. It began as a colony of orange growers, but by the 1880s, wealthy Easterners had discovered that the salubrious climate might benefit them as much as it did any orange. Brewing magnate Adoiphus Busch enthused, "I selected Pasadena as the winter home of my family because I consider it a veritable paradise." Up went grand hotels, and grander mansions. Just outside the city limits, railway tycoon Henry Huntington created an oasis of fine art and coddled gardens.

But millionaires weren't the only people to shape Pasadena. The San Gabriel Mountains, which rise just to the north, lured hikers. Painters settled along the Arroyo Seco, the picturesque gulch on the city's west side. The Greene brothers blended Asian influences with an Arts and Crafts aesthetic to create masterpieces of Craftsman architecture.

Nor were the sciences ignored. In 1891, Throop University was formed; by 1920, it had become the California Institute of Technology, nurturing Nobel Prize winners. In the late 1930s, Caltech established the Jet Propulsion Laboratory, at the upper end of Arroyo Seco.

Today's Pasadena is much changed from those early days, and yet is blessedly the same. The area bordering Colorado Boulevard, the main thoroughfare, has rebounded from decades of decline to become the heart of Old Pasadena--one of the most enjoyable downtowns in the country. Architectural treasures, such as the domed City Hall, have been restored. Late last year, the Norton Simon Museum--known for its collection of impressionists--completed a $6.5-million renovation that includes galleries designed by Frank Gehry and a lovely sculpture garden by Nancy Goslee Power. Caltech still churns out Nobel Prize winners, and Jet Propulsion Laboratory scientists track probes sent deep into the solar system and beyond. In this way, Pasadena remains the center of an expanding universe. As any true Pasadenan--from Mrs. Murdock on--will tell you, that is just as it should be.

friday

Area code is 626 unless noted. Bungalow breakfast. In both setting (a quaint cottage) and menu (American standards done right), Marston's Restaurant (151 E. Walnut St.; 796-2459) embodies Pasadena traditions. Burn those calories. Work off breakfast with a hike in the San Gabriel Mountains. The 5-mile (round-trip) jaunt on the fairly easy Lower Sam Merrill Trail begins at the north end of Lake Avenue. Park on the street, walk through the gates of the old Cobb estate, and continue 100 yards to the trail, which zigzags 2 1/2 miles to Echo Mountain. Carry water and watch for snakes. For trail conditions, contact the Angeles National Forest's Los Angeles River Ranger District (818/790-1151). Take along the seventh edition of John Robinson's essential Trails of the Angeles (Wilderness Press, Berkeley, 1998; $14.95; 800/443-7227).

Pause that refreshes. Need a posthike root beer float? Hit Soda Jerks (219 S. Fair Oaks Ave.; 583-8031).

Afternoon with art. Recent renovations mean the masterpieces of the Norton Simon Museum (12--6 Wed-Sun, Fri until 9; $6; 411 W. Colorado Blvd.; 449-6840) shine as never before. Another artful option is the Pacific Asia Museum (10--5 Wed-Sun, Thu until 8; $5; 46 N. Los Robles Ave.; 449-2742).

Dinner and a play. The Pasadena Playhouse (39 S. El Molino Ave.; 356-7529) has launched the likes of Dustin Hoffman and Gene Hackman. This month it premieres a musical comedy, The People Vs. Mona. For pre-theater dining, try newly opened Cayo (39 S. El Molino; 396-1800), across the courtyard. The menu is adventurous, and the wait staff will get you to the play on time.

saturday

Rise and shine. The Pasadena Baking Company (29 E. Colorado; 796-9966) and OldTown Restaurant & Bakery (166 W. Colorado; 793-2993) are tasty choices for morning caffeine and carbs. History of architecture, part I. Old Pasadena's architectural gems are explored on Pasadena Heritage's walking tours (9 A.M. second Sat of every month; $5; reservations required; 441-6333). Or amble on your own, admiring City Hall (100 N. Garfield Ave.), Castle Green (50 E. Green St.), and turn-of-the-century commercial buildings, restored to host stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue. Oh, yes--you can shop too.