The great taco hunt - Brief Article

Sunset, March, 2000

Today, La Taqueria serves as many as 1,200 people a day in two locations (Jara opened a branch in San Jose in 1978). "The Best Tacos in the Whole World," his sign boasts. No argument here. The crackling, sweet carnitas and smoky carne asada are delicious.

2889 Mission St., San Francisco (415/285-7117); 15 S. First St., San Jose (408/287-1542).--Alan Phinney

La Super-Rica Santa Barbara, CA

As a taqueria Santa Barbara's La Super-Rica is seriously overqualified but underidentified. No large sign announces what's going on in the low green-and-white hut. In a phrase, it's tacos al carbon, a concept that distracted owner Isidoro Gonzalez while he was studying in Mexico City in the late '70s: top-quality grilled meats, melted cheeses, and fresh salsas in homemade tortillas. Obsessed with the idea of bringing this good, casual Mexican cooking back to Santa Barbara, he opened La Super-Rica in May 1980.

The narrow focus stuck--almost all of the menu items chalked on the original board are still there (recipe for the beans is on page 116). Favorites: taco de bistec (grilled steak), taco de adobado (grilled marinated pork), and the Super-Rica Especial (a poblano--Gonzalez's favorite chili--stuffed with cheese).

Gonzalez introduces daily specials to stimulate curiosity. He wants people to think, "Today is Monday La Super-Rica is serving chiles rellenos. But what kind of chiles rellenos?"

622 N. Milpas St., Santa Barbara; (805) 963-4940.

More great Rocky Mountain taquerias

COLORADO

Denver

* Benny's Restaurant & Cantina, 301 E. Seventh Ave.; (303) 894-0788. The most popular eatery from longtime Denver restaurateur Benny Armas. Get right to the meat of the matter with the house specialty, tacos al carbon: a generous plate of spicy grilled sirloin strips ready to be added to soft corn tortillas, along with hand-mashed guacamole and a fiery pico de gallo.

Kyle Wagner

* El Taco de Mexico, 714 Santa Fe Dr.; (303) 623-3926. When locals think of el taco de Denver, the tiny El Taco de Mexico is it. In the open kitchen, small tortillas are filled with carefully cocked meats--including cabeza, sesos, and lengua--seasoned with mouth-numbing spices. The place has no liquor license, but you really want to face these powerful suckers sober.

* Mexico City Lounge, 2115 Larimer St.; (303) 296-0563. Denverites often plan their workday around the daily steak taco special at Mexico City, a true dive within spittin' distance of Coors Field. About $5 buys three greasy bundles--corn tortillas packed with seasoned strip steak, anointed with oil, and fried crisp. Extra napkins are a must.

Pueblo

* Cactus Flower, 2149 Jerry Murphy Rd.; (719) 545-8218. This local favorite spices up its diner atmosphere with Tejano music, smoky salsa, and deep-fried taquitos--hand-rolled tacos stuffed with beef or chicken and served with red or green chili sauce. -- Brad Cope

* Grand Prix Restaurant & Lounge, 615 E. Mesa Ave.; (719) 542-9825. Neon beer signs, comfy booths with plastic laminate tabletops, and "tacos on white." That last item--beef, chicken, beans, or chorizo sausage tucked into flaky flour tortillas and deep-fried--tastes so good, even the glowing St. Pauli Girl won't distract you,