Classic lobster tales

Sunset, March, 2000 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Hold the bib when you serve this elegant shellfish dish

* There's no better way to enjoy lobster's pure flavor than to have it boiled and shelled. It's true, though, that the bib your server ties around your neck when you order boiled lobster has a purpose: Eating the creature is a messy operation.

When dinner isn't suited to rolled-up sleeves, I go for Newburg, a shellfish classic. The delicate sauce enhances, without overwhelming, the sweet freshness that makes lobster so appealing. You cook and shell the animals in private, hours ahead--and save the brilliant red hulls for a dramatic presentation. You can even start the sauce in advance. My only break with tradition is to whip the cream; I add part to the sauce and reserve a cool dollop to spoon on last. The pale cloud melts smoothly into every bite.

Lobster Newburg

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: 2 servings

1/2 pound mushrooms

About 1/4 cup dry sherry or dry madeira

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots

1 tablespoon lemon juice

About 2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/4 cup whipping cream Salt and pepper

1/2 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 slices white bread (about 2 oz. total), toasted and crusts trimmed

2 cooked and shelled Maine lobsters (1 1/2 lb. each) or 2 spiny (rock) lobster tails (about 6 oz. each); directions follow

About 1 cup watercress sprigs, rinsed and crisped

1. Rinse and drain mushrooms; trim and discard discolored stem ends. Thinly slice mushrooms and put in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan. Add 1/4 cup sherry, shallots, lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons butter. Stir often over high heat until juices evaporate, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a small, deep bowl, whip cream until it holds soft peaks. Flavor to taste with salt, pepper, and about 1 tablespoon sherry If making up to 2 hours ahead, cover and chill.

3. In another small bowl, mix broth and cornstarch. Add to mushroom mixture and stir until boiling, about 1 minute; if making up to 2 hours ahead, remove from heat and let stand.

4. Butter toast, if desired, and set on dinner plates; lay lobster tail shells, cupped sides up, beside toast (if using Maine lobster, also garnish plates with body shells). Arrange a cluster of watercress sprigs on each plate.

5. Cut lobster tail meat into 1/2-inch chunks. Add tail and leg meat and about half the flavored whipped cream to mushroom mixture; stir over medium-high heat until boiling, 2 to 3 minutes (3 to 4 minutes if chilled). Quickly spoon mixture into tail shells and onto toast. Spoon remaining whipped cream onto lobster mixture; if available, lay claw meat on cream.

Per serving: 445 cal., 47% (207 cal.) from fat; 31 g protein; 23 g fat (13 g sat.); 28 g carbo (2.6 g fiber); 733 mg sodium; 146 mg chol.