Idaho's lovely land of lakes - natural beauty and tourism

Hidden Greek is owned by husband-and wife team John Muir and Iris Behr, who bought the 570-acre ranch in 1992. "The thing that really attracted us was the fact that you drive in here and you don't see anybody else," says Muir, whose ancestors do include the famous naturalist but who himself faintly resembles Ernest Hemingway.

The earlier John Muir shared his passion for the outdoors through evocative writings that urged people to seek out wild places and preserve them. Here in a land pocked by logging and mining, the contemporary Muir and Behr found a relatively untouched preserve, where meadows and woodlands provide refuge to deer, bears, mountain lions--and work-worn travelers. "We could have retired here on our own, but we wanted to share," Behr says. Indeed, the ranch's guest hooks are filled with heartfelt thank-yous to Muir and Behr for offering the chance to slow down.

One morning, Hidden Creek staff member Mike Pantoja leads me on a stroll along the ranch's Medicine Trail. I usually hike as fast as I can, rarely stopping to see what's at my feet. But here every step brings a discovery: that sheep sorrel leaves taste lemony and that plantain leaves can be chewed and used to treat a bee sting. The walk reminds me of the famous Henry David Thoreau line: "I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately."

I see a pattern emerging. On Lake Pend Oreille, on Tubbs Hill, on the Hidden Creek Medicine Trail--everywhere I have gone in northern Idaho, in fact--I have felt a license to linger. I take my cue from the autumn sun and its shortening arc across the sky. It is less ambitious now than in summer, and I am too. I am asleep by 10 o'clock each night, and I sense I will go home rested.

Northern Idaho travel planner

Expect daytime temperatures in the mid-70s in September, dipping to about 60[degrees] by October.

For more information, contact the Coeur d'Alene-Post Falls Visitors Center at 4199 River Bend Ave., Post Falls; (800) 292-2553.

Area code is 208 unless noted.

Attractions

* COEUR D'ALENE Brooks Seaplanes. Scenic flights over northern Idaho. From $40. 664-2842.

Tubbs Hill Trail system. Easy walks overlooking Coeur d'Alene Lake. The main trailhead is at Front Ave. and Third St. 769-2252.

* SANDPOINT Full Spectrum Tours. Sea kayaking tours from $59. Ask about fall foliage trips. 263-5975.

* SILVER VALLEY Oasis Rooms Bordello Museum. 10-5 daily; $5. 605 Cedar St., Wallace; 753-0801. Old Mission State Park. Showcases Cataldo Mission. 9-5 daily; $3. I-90, exit 39; 682-3814.

Sierra Silver Mine Tour. Includes trolley tour to former working mine. No children under 4 allowed. 9-4 daily, every half-hour, through September; $8. 420 Fifth St., Wallace; 752-5151.

Shopping

Bitterroot Mercantile. Antiques and creations by local artisans. 117 1/2 McKinley Ave., Kellogg; 783-5491.

Dining

Coldwater Creek. Two-level bridge featuring the catalog company's wares. First and Cedar streets, Sandpoint; 263-2265.

Cedars Floating Restaurant. This local favorite specializes in charbroiled fresh fish. U.S. 95, 1/4 mile south of Coeur d'Alene; 664-2922.