Sebastopol's botanical bounty - Brief Article

Sunset, Sept, 2001 by Lisa Taggart

Apples, unusual plants, and good food fill this small Sonoma County town

Things grow up nice in Sebastopol--particularly the apples. Six miles west of Santa Rosa in southern Sonoma County, Sebastopol has been producing what might be the country's tastiest Gravensteins for more than 100 years.

"We get a better-flavored apple here," says Ben Hurst, whose family has owned orchards at Twin Hill Ranch for 59 years. "It's because of our cool climate."

This month, the apple harvest is in full swing. You can pick up fresh Gravensteins as well as Jonathan, Delicious, Rome Beauty, and other apple varieties directly from the farms or from the Sunday morning farmers' market downtown. And, better still, you'll find those apples filling pies, pastries, sauces, and jams--even cider--around town.

In recent years the region's apple harvest has declined because of competition from out-of-state apple growers as well as the greater profits in wine grapes. But there's still plenty of good stuff growing in Sebastopol. A tremendous variety of plants, it seems, flourishes here. "We have the best place in the world to grow anything," says Hurst.

Nursery owner Marilee Maertz agrees: "There's a reason Luther Burbank was here, out of all the spots in the world."

Glorious plants--and pies

One of the West's most famous horticultural innovators, Burbank chose to conduct his plant experiments on a farm in Sebastopol because of the area's mild Mediterranean climate and good soil.

Today, nursery professionals love the area for the same reasons Burbank and early apple farmers did. The small town also draws serious gardeners looking for rare or unusual plants.

Here, you can visit a bamboo grower and a nursery specializing in Japanese maples. You can even check out what is believed to be the country's largest carnivorous plant nursery. "People come nursery hopping now the way they used to go winery hopping," says Maertz.

With all these good things growing in Sebastopol, it's no surprise that the area has quite a selection of restaurants. One of the best is Mom's Apple Pie, a small take-out pie shop north of town. On a Saturday afternoon, patrons were lined up out the door.

"Are these pies any good?" asked my mother, skeptical that anyone could bake as well as she does.

"They're the best in the world," roared the man in front of us, purchasing two. And I'm inclined to think he was right; the apple pie we bought didn't make it home.

But don't go doubting my mother's baking skills. Just count the pie's extraordinary goodness as another of the glories of Sebastopol.

Sebastopol travel planner

Sebastopol is 6 miles west of Santa Rosa, at the junction of State 12 and State 116. For general information, contact the Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center (265 S. Main St.; 707/823-3032 or www.sebastopol.org).

Area code is 707 unless noted.

Best apple picks

For a map of area farms, contact Sonoma County Farm Trails (800/207-9464 or www.farmtrails.org). Ace in the Hole Pub and Cidery. America's first cider pub in the last 100 years makes hard cider from local apples. 3100 Gravenstein Hwy. N, Sebastopol; 829-1101.

Kozlowski Farms. Homemade jams, jellies, and sauces, plus apples, pies, cookies, and a deli. 9-5 daily 5566 Gravenstein Hwy., Forestville; 887-1587 or (800) 473-2767.

Mom's Apple Pie. Outstanding apple, banana cream, peach, raspberry, and many other pies for take-out. 10-7 daily. 4550 Gravenstein Hwy. N, Sebastopol; 823-8330.

Sebastopol Farm Market. Local growers offer Gravenstein, Delicious, Jonathan, and Rome Beauty apples, as well as other produce. 10-1:30 Sun. Downtown Plaza, Sebastopol.

Twin Hill Ranch. Picnic area for enjoying more than 30 kinds of apples. 8:30-5 Mon-Sat. 1689 Pleasant Hill Rd., Sebastopol; 823-2815.

Walker Apple Ranch. About 25 different kinds of apples on 30 acres. 10955 Upp Rd., Graton; 823-4310.

Nurseries

Bamboo Sourcery. Eight-acre demonstration garden contains hundreds of bamboo varieties. By appointment only. 666 Wagnon Rd., Sebastopol; 823-5866.

Harmony Farm Supply & Nursery. Organic plants and fertilizers; garden tools. 8-5 Mon-Fri; 9-5 Sat-Sun. 3244 Gravenstein Hwy. N, Sebastopol; 823-9125.

California Carnivores. Purportedly the world's largest collection of carnivorous plants open to the public. Behind Mark West Winery; call for directions. 10-4 daily. 7020 Trenton-Healdsburg Rd., Forestville; 838-1630.

Japanese Maples by Momiji Nursery. Wide selection of Japanese maples. By appointment only 2765 Stony Point Rd., Santa Rosa; 528-2917.

Vintage Gardens. Thousands of antique or rare roses. 9-5 Tue-Sun. 2833 Old Gravenstein Hwy. S, Sebastopol; 829-2035.

Luther Burbank Gold Ridge Experiment Farm. Self-guided tours of the farm Burbank purchased in 1885. 7781 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol; 829-6711 or www.wschs-grf.pon.net.

Dining

Coffee Catz. Coffee shop decorated like a Victorian parlor with a hip, young twist. 6761 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol; 829-6600.

Lucy's Cafe. Everything from fried eggs in the morning to grilled salmon at night. 110 N. Main, Sebastopol; 829-9713. Lutecia. Serves French-California cuisine (dinner only). 1015 Gravenstein Hwy. S, Sebastopol; 829-7010.