Limelight on a leaf - cooking with makrut lime leaves - Brief Article - Recipe

Sunset, Sept, 2001 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

* If you happen to spot glossy, deep green fresh makrut lime leaves in a well-stocked produce section or Asian market, buy a handful. When cut, rubbed, or crushed, makrut (also called Kieffer) lime leaves exude a marvelous, complex citrus aroma that is at once terribly familiar and--unless you know what it is--unidentifiable. In Thai, Indonesian, Malaysian, and Vietnamese cooking, the leaves play an important role in seasoning soups, curries, salads, and other dishes. John Beardsley, chef at San Francisco's Ponzu restaurant, makes good use of the leaves, following both Southeast Asian traditions and his own creative direction, as in the dressing for this refreshing honeydew and cantaloupe salad.

You can order fresh makrut lime leaves from Uwajimaya (800/889-1928 or bobh@uwajimaya.com). They can be frozen for two to three months.

Melon and Shrimp Salad

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: Makrut (Kieffer) lime leaves resemble pairs of wings (see photo below). If fresh leaves aren't available, use 1/4 teaspoon each grated lime peel and lemon peel and omit heating the sugar, ginger, and water.

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 makrut lime leaf (sections 2 1/2 to 3 in. long; see notes), rinsed

1/4 cup lime juice

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (nuoc main or nam pla) or soy sauce

1 cantaloupe (about 1 1/2 lb., or a 1 1/2-lb. piece)

1 honeydew (about 1 1/2 lb., or a 1 1/2-lb. piece)

1/2 pound shelled cooked tiny shrimp

1 fresh jalapeno chili, rinsed, stemmed, seeded, and minced

1 tablespoon slivered fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons finely chopped salted roasted peanuts

1. In a microwave-safe bowl, mix sugar, ginger, and 1 tablespoon water. Gut lime leaf crosswise into thin slivers; add to bowl. Heat in a microwave oven on full power (100%) until hot, about 30 seconds. Add lime juice and fish sauce, stir, and let dressing stand.

2. Rinse cantaloupe and honeydew; cut off and discard peel, cut melons in half, and scoop out and discard seeds. Cut each melon into 1-inch-thick slices and arrange on a platter.

3. Place shrimp in a colander and rinse under cold water; lay on towels to drain. Scatter shrimp over melon. Stir minced chili (to taste) into dressing, then spoon dressing over melon and shrimp. Sprinkle basil and cilantro over salad, then top with peanuts. To serve, spoon portions, including dressing, onto plates.

Per serving: 119 cal., 19% (23 cal.) from fat; 10 g protein; 2.6 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 15 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 307 mg sodium; 74 mg chol.