Home-grown heros: These nine culinary herbs are indispensable for gardener-cooks. Here's how to grow and cook with them - Recipe

Sunset, March, 2002 by Lauren Bonar Swezey

HARVEST TIP: Oil is strongest when the plant is in bud but before flowers open. Gut back to 4 inches tall in late spring, summer, and fall.

USES: Beans, cheeses, eggs, meats, pastas, salsas, sauces, soups, stews, and vegetables.

* Parsley (Petroselinum). Flat or curly green leaves grow in clumps. Flat-leafed types grow 2 to 3 feet tall, curly types to 1 foot. Biennial often grown as an annual. All zones.

BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: 'Giant Italian' is best for cooking; the curly type ('Extra Curled' or 'Green River') is good as a garnish.

* Lemon Thyme Vinegar (center, above). With a vegetable peeler, pare a thin Spiral strip of peel 6 to 8 inches long from a lemon. With a chopstick or wooden skewer, push lemon peel and 6 rinsed sprigs (each 3 in. long) fresh thyme into a clean 12- to 16- ounce bottle. Fill bottle with white wine vinegar (vinegar should cove herbs completely) and seal. Store in a cool, dark place at least 1 week or up to 4 months.

VARIATIONS

* Lemon Verbena Vinegar (left). Follow recipe for Lemon Thyme Vinegar (preceding), except replace the thyme with 2 or 3 sprigs (each 6 to 8 in. long) lemon verbena; omit peel, if desired.

* Purple Basil Vinegar (right). Follow recipe for Lemon Verbena Vinegar (preceding), but replace verbena with 2 or 3 sprigs (each 4 to 6 in. long) purple or opal basil. Omit lemon peel.

Tips for buying herbs

To choose the right variety, use the sniff test

When you shop for herbs, keep in mind that within each group--oregano or rosemary, for instance--fragrances differ widely. Some oreganos are mild, almost scentless, and not great for cooking, while others are pungent and flavorful. Rosemaries, on the other hand, can be strong and piney or have a sweet, gingery taste.

Since flavor preferences vary, the best way to know if the aroma of a certain herb appeals to you is to give the plant a touch and sniff test. When shopping at the nursery, gently run your fingers over the foliage (don't hurt the plant), then sniff them. If you like the fragrance, buy the plant.

Keep in mind that plantings are never permanent. If you don't like the flavor of a certain herb after growing it and cooking with it, you can always remove the plant and try another variety.

Buying herbs by mail is another matter; there's no opportunity to sniff the foliage before the plant arrives on your doorstep. The varieties listed under "9 essential herbs," our favorites, can help you get started.

This two-tiered container garden holds a selection of basic herbs. Trailers and fillers--chives, oregano (not shown), rosemary (which stays small in a pot), and thyme--tumble over the edges of the bottom pot (about 24 inches wide). Dwarf, purple, and sweet basils grow in the top pot (about 16 inches wide), with thyme filling in around the edges. To keep potted herbs healthy, fertilize and water them regularly.

How many plants?

Use this list as a guideline, adjusting the number to reflect your preferences. If you love to cook with basil, set out six plants to start with, then add more several weeks later to extend the harvest season.