The flavors of Vietnam - Food Entertaining - Recipe

Sunset, March, 2002 by Linda Lau Anusasananan, Basil Friedman

* Food styling by Basil Friedman

You've tasted this intriguing cuisine in noodle houses and more formal Vietnamese eateries. Now widely available ingredients and our simplified techniques make it easy to sample at home

* Political upheaval, ironically, can leave a bright legacy in the kitchen. Out of Vietnam's long history of domination--by the Chinese and, later, the French--emerged an exciting multicultural cuisine. Cooking techniques from those world-class cuisines, applied to the country's tropical bounty, created a vivid palette of flavors and textures unique among Asian traditions.

In the late 1960s and the 1970s, when many of us first became aware of Vietnam during yet another period of upheaval, our country became a beneficiary of that culinary legacy. Many Vietnamese immigrants settled in the West. Restaurants and markets sprang up to serve these communities, and eventually curious Westerners ventured in, drawn by aromas of Chinese five spice, lemon grass, fish sauce, and unusual fresh herbs.

This sampler of Vietnamese classics--which is based on easy techniques--gives you a taste of this intriguing cuisine. Many of the essential ingredients can be found in the Asian section of well-stocked supermarkets. The less familiar fresh herbs are available in Vietnamese grocery stores, but you can also use the supermarket alternatives we give. Either way, the dishes will be a delicious adventure.

Grilled Catfish with Noodles

(Cha Ca)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: At the Noodle Ranch in Seattle, head chef Nga Bui sets a hot, spicy fish fillet on a bed of rice noodles and greens for a light, refreshing meal in a bowl, Red curry powder can be found in the spice section of many supermarkets; if it's unavailable, use the more common yellow powder. The grilled fish can also be served with hot cooked rice or in a sandwich.

MAKES: 6 servings

1/3 cup minced shallots

3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla)

1 tablespoon red or yellow curry powder (see notes)

1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

2 cloves garlic, peeled and pressed or minced

6 boned, skinned catfish or tilapia fillets (about 6 oz. each)

About 2 tablespoons salad oil

4 cups bite-size pieces iceberg lettuce (8 oz.), rinsed and crisped

3 cups bean sprouts (6 to 8 oz.), rinsed

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, rinsed

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, rinsed

6 to 8 cups cooled Cooked Rice Noodles (about 1/8 in. wide; recipe in box at right)

1/2 cup chopped roasted, salted peanuts

1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions (including tops)

1/2 cup chopped fresh dill

About 1/2 cup Fried Shallots (recipe on page 136)

About 1 1/2 cups Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (recipe on page 141)

1. In a small bowl, mix minced shallots, fish sauce, curry powder, ginger, turmeric, cayenne, and garlic. Rinse fish and pat dry. Rub shallot mixture all over fillets and stack in a bowl. Cover and chill 30 minutes or up to 1 day

2. Brush both sides of fillets lightly with oil. Place fish on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals or over high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); cover gas grill. Cook fish, turning once, until barely opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 4 to 8 minutes total. Serve hot or cool.

3. Meanwhile, divide lettuce, bean sprouts, mint, and cilantro among six deep, wide bowls. Mound noodles equally over vegetables and herbs.

4. Lay a grilled fish fillet on each mound of noodles. Sprinkle peanuts, green onions, dill, and Fried Shallots equally over the top. Serve with Vietnamese Dipping Sauce to drizzle over portions to taste.

Per serving: 705 cal., 38% (270 cal.) from fat; 36 g protein; 30 g fat (5.2 g sat.); 72 g carbo (3.1 g fiber); 1,316mg sodium; 56 mg chol.

ASIAN KITCHEN BASICS

Noodles made from ground rice form the base for many popular Vietnamese dishes. They may be fresh or dried, thick or thin. In the West, they're most commonly available dried and can be found in many supermarkets and in Asian grocery stores.

Throughout Asia, most cooks soak the dried noodles in water until they're pliable. Just before using them, they put the soaked noodles in a wire basket with a long handle and immerse it in boiling water; the noodles cook almost instantly. We skip the soaking step here and boil the noodles just a little longer.

Cooked Rice Noodles (Bun)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 5 minutes

NOTES: Dried rice noodles range in width from about 1/16 to 1/4 inch wide; the cooked yield varies slightly depending on their width (look for width specified in recipe).

MAKES: 6 to 8 cups; 6 to 8 servings

In a 6- to 8-quart pan over high heat, bring 3 to 4 quarts water to a boil. Add 12 to 14 ounces dried rice noodles (mai fun, rice sticks, or rice vermicelli) and stir to separate; cook until barely tender to bite, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain, It not using immediately, rinse well to keep noodles from sticking together, and drain again.

Per serving: 144 cal., 0% 10 cal.) from fat; 0 g protein; 0 g fat; 26 g carbo (0 g fiber); 75 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.