The Low-Fat Cook: Lean dishes that show off potatoes in all their versatility - Recipe

Sunset, March, 2002 by Charity Ferreira

Off the couch

* Next time you eat a potato, leave off a little of the butter to find out what the spud really tastes like: It might be sweet, salty, earthy or even buttery. Its texture might feel creamy waxy, fluffy, or mealy. Although there's no denying that potatoes taste wonderful prepared with some fat, their various flavors and textures stand out better in a leaner setting. We've taken advantage of these characteristics in dishes that let you appreciate the potato far more than the fat it's served with.

Warm Roasted-Potato Salad with Artichokes

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 35 minutes

NOTES: Rub cut sides of artichokes with half a lemon or drop them into a bowl with 2 cups water and 3 tablespoons lemon juice (drain well before using).

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds thin-skinned potatoes (1 1/2 in. wide), scrubbed and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks

1 tablespoon olive oil About 3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 pounds baby artichokes (about 12, each 1 1/2 in. wide; see notes) or 1 package (8 oz.) frozen artichoke hearts, thawed

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 cups bite-size pieces rinsed and crisped frisee (about 4 oz.) or salad mix, rinsed and crisped

1 tablespoon drained capers

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

Pepper

1. In a 12- by 15-inch baking pan, mix potatoes with 1/2 teaspoon olive oil; sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and mix to coat. Bake in a 400[degrees] regular or convection oven, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are browned and tender when pierced, 25 to 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, rinse fresh artichokes; trim off discolored stem ends. Break off and discard coarse outer leaves down to tender, pale green inner ones. Cut off thorny artichoke tips, pare coarse fibers from stems, and cut in half lengthwise. With a small, sharp knife, trim out fuzzy centers and discard (see notes).

3. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, bring 1/2 cup water and the lemon juice to a boil. Add artichokes and 1/4 teaspoon salt; cover, reduce heat, and simmer until artichokes are tender when pierced, about 10 minutes (if using frozen artichoke hearts, skip step 2 and cook only 3 to 4 minutes). Uncover and boil, stirring often, until most of the liquid has evaporated.

4. In a large bowl, mix remaining 2 1/2 teaspoons olive oil, vinegar, and mustard. Add potatoes, artichokes (with any juices), frisee, capers, and tarragon. Mix gently to coat, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

Per serving: 86 cal., 27% (23 cal.) from fat; 4.1 g protein; 2.5 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 13 g carbo (6.8 g fiber); 351 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Curried Potato Pita Sandwiches

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: The curried potatoes also make a great side dish.

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

1 onion (about 8 oz.), peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced crosswise

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons salad oil

2 tablespoons curry powder

1 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

About 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold or other thin-skinned potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1 cup nonfat plain yogurt

1/2 cup diced peeled cucumber

1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice

3 pocket breads (about 6 in. wide), cut in half crosswise to make 6 pockets

1. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir onion and 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic in oil until onion is limp and starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in curry powder, cumin, cayenne, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

2. Add potatoes and 1 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender when pierced, about 15 minutes; if they start to stick, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water to pan as needed. Stir in parsley and more salt to taste.

3. Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix yogurt, cucumber, lemon juice, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon garlic. Add salt to taste.

4. Toast pocket breads lightly in a toaster and gently pull open. Spoon potato mixture equally into halves; spoon yogurt sauce over potatoes. Per serving: 172 cal., 10% (18 cal.) from fat; 7.8 g protein; 2 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 32 g carbo (5.1 g fiber); 394 mg sodium; 0.8 mg chol.

Smoked Trout Brandade

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours

NOTES: This garlicky puree makes a good side dish as well as an appetizer. You can prepare through step 4 up to 1 day ahead; chill brandade airtight, and store crumbs airtight at room temperature. Bake chilled brandade 15 to 20 minutes.

MAKES: About 12 appetizer servings

12 ounces boned, skinned smoked trout

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 1/3 cups nonfat milk

3 thyme sprigs (each about 3 in. long), rinsed

1 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks

2 baguettes (8 oz. each), sliced diagonally 1/4 inch thick

3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1. Shred trout with a fork. Thinly slice 2 cloves garlic. In a 2- to 3-quart pan, combine sliced garlic, milk, and thyme sprigs; bring just to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat, stir in trout, cover, and let stand about 15 minutes. Remove thyme sprigs.