Viva Los Cabos: head for a long weekend on Baja's southern tip - Travel

Sunset, March, 2003 by David Lansing

At its busiest, Cabo San Lucas can seem a lot like Las Vegas: a little too crowded, a little too boisterous. That's the rap the once-sleepy fishing village got in the early 1990s, when late-night hangouts like El Squid Roe drew flocks to resorts at the tip of Baja California.

Although the nightlife scene is still vibrant, we found plenty of options for couples and families interested in kicking back at a quiet resort or wandering a bit afield for a more authentic Mexican experience.

If you haven't visited in a while, you'll be surprised by the number of first-rate resorts. In the last few years, hotel and condo developments have spread themselves out on bluffs above the Sea of Cortez along the 18 miles of coast--known as the Corridor--separating Cabo San Lucas from the classy shops of San Jose del Cabo.

Balmy spring weather in Baja makes this an excellent time to visit, and convenient flights make it perfect for an exotic long weekend.

Friday

The deep-blue water edging many of the Corridor's hotels may look inviting, but with large waves and strong rip currents, many beaches can be treacherous. Bahia Santa Maria (look for beach access sign near km. 12 marker on Hwy. 1), a horseshoe-shaped cove near the Hotel Twin Dolphin, is not only a protected marine sanctuary but a good family beach as well; rent chairs or snorkeling gear from a beachside stand.

Snack time. Felix's (on Hidalgo near Zapata in Cabo; 624/143-4290) has been around since 1958. This family-run cafe serves up traditional Mexican food, from pozole to cabrilla (sea bass) and chiles en nogada.

Find glass treasures. Much of Baja's distinctive Mexican glassware, in hues of blue and green, comes from the Glass Factory (call for directions; www.glassfactory.com. mx or 624/143-0255), a five-minute taxi ride from downtown. Tour the factory, watch the artisan glassblowers, then select a set of margarita glasses with cactus stems.

Sail away. Eduardo Padilla runs bay cruises past Lover's Beach, Land's End, and along the Pacific coast aboard the Rissalena (Cabo San Lucas Marina; www.rissalena.com or 624/147-7037), a gleaming 37-foot power catamaran, while his daughter, Laura, serves margaritas.

Mi Casa es su casa. Across from the main plaza, Mi Casa (Calle Cabo San Lucas at Madero; 624/143-1933) serves mole poblano and other Mexican specialties. Sit on the large patio near the cascading fountain.

Nightlife. Mound Cabo's marina, there are a number of late-night bars and clubs offering cold beers, live music, and spirited entertainment. At El Squid Roe (Blvd. Marina, opposite Plaza Bonita Mall; 624/143-0655), tables are regularly rearranged for impromptu tabletop dancing.

Saturday

Dig into French toast smothered in nuts and cream cheese and topped with pineapple at Mama's Royal Cafe (Hidalgo at Zapata in Cabo; 624/143-4290). The OJ is fresh, as is the live mariachi music.

Road trip. Drive a good hour north of Cabo to Todos Santos, a bohemian enclave known for its art galleries, surf beaches, and culinary excellence. Highway 19 skirts the coast past the village of El Pescadero and Playa San Pedro (turn left at km. 57 marker and follow the dirt road about 1 1/2 miles), an excellent bodysurfing beach.

Art stroll. Streets around the main plaza in Todos Santos are lined with small restaurants, stylish inns, and 13 art galleries. The Galeria Santa Fe (Calle Centenario #10, in the central plaza; 612/145-0340) bursts with milagro crosses, Frida Kahlo reproductions, and eclectic Mexican folk art.

Reading list. John Steinbeck's Sea of Cortez is a popular selection at El Tecolote Libros (corner of Juarez and Hidalgo; 612/145-0295), a store with English and Spanish selections.

Try the shrimp ravioli. Some Cabo visitors come to Todos Santos just to dine in the courtyard adorned with ferns, hibiscus, and bougainvillea at Cafe Santa Fe (Calle Centenario #4; 612/145-0340). Go for the ravioli stuffed with local lobster or shrimp.

Greet the fishermen. Between 1 and 3 most afternoons, local fishermen ride the waves to the beach in their pangas as they arrive at Playa Punta Lobos (at km. 54, go west 1 1/2 miles). You can buy their catch straight from the boat or in town at Pescaderia Punta Lobos (on Juarez near Hidalgo).

Wine bar. The owners of the Todos Santos Inn (Calle Legaspi 33; 612/145-0040), John Stoltzfus and Craig Sinel, put a new wine bar in a shady courtyard where you can sip a Baja red.

Swiss retreat. Former Zurich banker Juerg Wiesendanger and wife Libusche built their seven-room inn, Posada La Poza (near Playa la Cachora; follow Posada signs from town; www. lapoza.com or 612/145-0400), in a palm grove next to a bird sanctuary The inn's restaurant serves Mexican dishes "with a touch of Swiss."

Sunday

On the eastern end of the cape, San Jose del Cabo is a traditional Mexican town near the site where Jesuits founded a mission of the same name in 1730. The main square, with its wrought-iron bandstand, is surrounded by pleasant cafes, a number of jewelry stores, and several excellent art galleries.