Cheese tasting: for a simple, sophisticated party, pair artisan cheeses with wine - Food

Sunset, March, 2003 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Cheesemaking is an old art that has been making a big comeback in the West. Local artisans from Colorado to California are handcrafting cheeses in the Old World tradition, working in small batches and attending to every detail, from what the cows eat to how often the cheeses are turned during the aging process. All this hard work results in complex, flavorful cheeses.

They range from soft-ripened cow-milk cheese full of robust, earthy flavors to aged goat cheese with surprising complexity and from creamy buttery-textured blue cheese to aged cheddars. At specialty markets and even large grocery stores now, the selection is getting better and better. This is great news for anyone who likes to entertain with ease. These delicious cheeses make perfect appetizers all on their own-pair a few with some wines for a stylish, no-hassle appetizer party.

The strategy

With just a little advance planning, a cheese- and wine-tasting party is simple to put together. All you really need is great cheese (count on buying 4 to 6 ounces per person), bread or crackers, and wine (about one bottle for every two guests). Everything else is optional, including fresh or dried fruits, toasted or spiced nuts, and other accompaniments.

When purchasing cheese for a party you can either offer a variety--soft-ripened, cow-milk, goat, blue, and hard cheeses can be mixed and matched with delicious results-or concentrate on one type. The latter approach makes wine pairing a little simpler, but offering a range gives you great potential for a beautiful display and distinctive serving ideas. Let the cheeses warm to room temperature for best flavor and texture. (Use the same strategies to assemble a simple cheese tray that will be part of a larger appetizer spread or--as a cheese course-a stylish way to end dinner.)

Plan ahead: you may need to order artisan cheeses from the cheesemaker or have your market order them. As with anything handmade, supplies of these cheeses may be limited. Our chart on page 139 describes some of our favorites from among the very newest Western cheeses, but explore on your own as well-there's a world of delicious choices at your market.