Eat outside in San Francisco: September nights mean sublime open-air dining - Restaurant Review

Sunset, Sept, 2003 by Amy McConnell

After all of San Francisco's bleak "Faugust" days, fall's golden afternoons and balmy evenings seem tailor-made for an alfresco meal. Fortunately, a handful of city restaurants take outdoor dining to the next level: You can dine while watching a classic flick projected on a wall, kick off your shoes and wait to be served in a poolside hut, or watch the sun set over downtown skyscrapers. Go ahead, splurge--the fog rolls back all too soon.

$: average dinner entree is less than $15; $$: $16-$25; $$$: $26 or more

Bambuddha Lounge

A tropical oasis in the midst of one of San Francisco's grittiest neighborhoods, the Phoenix Hotel's restaurant and lounge (transformed from Backflip) is one of the hottest new hangouts in town.

WHY EAT OUTSIDE? It is, perhaps, the city's only poolside restaurant. It's also undoubtedly the only San Francisco restaurant to offer covered nipa huts (Southeast Asian-style palapas) where you can lean back on triangular, bolstered pillows and wait to be served.

JUST RIGHT FOR ... Nights when you crave poolside cocktails, as long as you don't mind an ample dose of cooler-than-thou attitude from the young, Hollywood-style crowd.

SIP THIS: The Monkey Cocotini (vanilla vodka and coconut rum in a coconut-rimmed glass) is as smooth as silk.

DISH TO DIE FOR: The kitchen is still finding its rhythm, but you can't go wrong with the halibut with sour mango curry, toasted cashews, and basil.

Dinner only, Tue-Sat; $. 601 Eddy St.; (415) 885-5088.

Belden Place

The closest thing San Francisco has to a European quarter, the traffic-free alleyway known as Belden Place, just off Union Square, is lined with excellent restaurants, all sharing the same European-flavored outdoor ambience. Among the best are B44, serving Catalan cuisine; Cafe Tiramisu, with northern Italian fare; and Plouf, which serves mostly French-style seafood.

WHY EAT OUTSIDE? Sandwiched between colorful restaurant facades on one side and a brick building on the other, Belden has views of skyscrapers and Gothic towers above. Arrive before dusk and watch the setting sun cast shadows across the buildings overhead.

JUST RIGHT FOR ... When you're craving some good people-watching, including a healthy representation of San Francisco's European expatriate crowd.

SIP THIS: At Plouf, try the Plouf cocktail, a light blue concoction of vodka, fresh lemon, blue curacao, and sugar. Plouf means "splash" in French, and, fittingly, the drink looks like the sea.

DISH TO DIE FOR: At B44, paellas are king: There are nine choices. At Plouf, mussels are a must--they're prepared seven ways. And at Cafe Tiramisu, all the pastas are handmade, and, of course, the tiramisu is superb.

Belden Place runs parallel to Kearny Street between Kearny and Montgomery Streets and Pine and Bush Streets. B44: closed Sun, $$$; 44 Belden; (415) 986-6287. Cafe Tiramisu: closed Sun, $$; 28 Belden; (415) 421-7044. Plouf: closed Sun, $$; 40 Belden; (415) 986-6491.

Chez Spencer

You might doubt there's a restaurant on this nondescript block of SoMa (where Citizen Cake used to be), but step through the gate and you'll know you're in for a special night out. The French-inspired menu is a culinary tour de force, the service is impeccable, and the mood is sophisticated with a chic, industrial twist.

WHY EAT OUTSIDE? The huge, covered, heated courtyard hedged by an herb garden and olive trees feels doubly enchanting because it's in such an unexpected location.

JUST RIGHT FOR ... When you want to impress foodie friends who thought they knew all the cool spots.

SIP THIS: The champagne cocktail (with a few drops of peach nectar) is as pretty as a flower, served in a pink sugar-rimmed flute. The martini comes with an ice cube as big and perfectly round as a jawbreaker.

DISH TO DIE FOR: Smoked duck-breast salad lyonnaise with a warm poached egg; antelope with juniper-berry sauce; or mango tarte tatin (menu changes seasonally).

Dinner only, Tue-Sat; $$$. 82 14th St.; (415) 864-2191.

Enrico's Sidewalk Cafe

A North Beach landmark since 1958 and San Francisco's first sidewalk cafe, Enrico's reopened in 1992 with an updated California bistro menu. While the food these days is remarkably good (not to mention well priced), the real reason to come here is to soak in the lively bohemian scene, including live jazz every night.

WHY EAT OUTSIDE? It's right on Broadway--the main drag where Carol Doda once headlined--so the heated sidewalk patio feels more connected to the real, old-timey North Beach than any of the outdoor spaces at the glitzy cafes along Columbus Avenue.

JUST RIGHT FOR ... When you long to be a beat-era hipster. With live jazz, an art gallery on the walls, and a grown-up, even slightly naughty vibe, this is the next best thing.

SIP THIS: Just about any cocktail. Sit at the bar and watch Ward Dunham, who's been tending bar here since 1962, make your martini shaken, not stirred.

DISH TO DIE FOR: All the entrees are simple, seasonal, and tasty (wild-mushroom lasagna is especially good), but the real don't-miss dish is the anchovy-stuffed, deep-fried olive appetizer.