Bargain Seattle: the Seattle buzz is a caffeinated mix of walks, ferries, and shopping - Value Vacation

Sunset, March, 2004 by Lisa Taggart

My husband, Jim, works too hard, so I decided to whisk him away for a quick three-day pick-him-up. Caffeine is his favorite vice, so I knew Seattle was the perfect destination.

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But Jim's not keen on profligate spending, so we set out to enjoy a winter weekend in the rainy city for less than $350. Our strategies: We went in the off-season, when rates are low, and found a well-priced shared-bath hotel. We embraced drizzly weather as quintessentially Seattle and, to warm up, hit many of the city's lively and inexpensive coffee shops.

DAY 1: Strolling Belltown

We chose to stay in Belltown at the chic Ace Hotel. Sleek and fashionably minimalist, rooms with shared baths start at $65 and are within walking distance of downtown and the waterfront. Compared with the hip clientele, we felt a little schlumpy in our waterproof parkas, but we felt smart again when we paid our tab of $141.44, including tax.

I had searched for rates on the Internet and found other good deals that included private baths at downtown's Paramount Hotel. And we discovered that the Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau (www.seeseattle.org or 206/461-5840) features winter discount-lodging deals of up to 70 percent (through Mar 31; www.seattlesupersaver.com or 206/461-5882).

After unpacking we headed to the water, turning north at Elliott Avenue for an invigorating stroll in Myrtle Edwards Park. Joggers and dog walkers promenaded with us. We looked out at Puget Sound, where, under a misty gray sky, tankers and ferries chugged along, trailing puffs of white smoke.

To get Jim started on the right foot, we dropped into a coffee shop; in fact, we began at the city's most famous one, the original Starbucks at Pike Place Market. As the espresso flowed and the sky darkened, we set a goal to try as many Seattle coffees as possible.

By the time we climbed the Harbor Steps south of Pike Place, night had settled in, and waterfalls along the stairway glowed with decorative lights. We were hungry by the time we found ourselves in front of Wild Ginger, a sleek Southeast Asian restaurant with a mouthwatering satay menu. We tried grilled lamb and shrimp with three dipping sauces, along with other appetizers and drinks. By sampling from small plates, we kept the tab under $40.

Giddy from the good meal, we headed to grungy-hip Capitol Hill and the Capitol Club for even more giddiness--a Violet Martini for me and a gin martini shaken, not stirred, for Jim. The place was hopping; satiated, fully caffeinated, and just a bit inebriated, we definitely felt the Seattle buzz.

DAY 2: Tour and ferry ride

We started our first morning in Seattle, natch, with a fresh dose of caffeine--this time from Tully's Coffee in Pioneer Square, a 10-minute walk from Belltown or a short ride on the free downtown bus. We then joined Bill Speidel's Underground Tour for a peek at the subterranean sidewalks that remain at the original street level of Seattle. The popular tour was totally fascinating--well worth it, we decided, for $10 each.

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Because we'd just seen them from below, we now had a new appreciation for the violet glass set in the sidewalk--like skylights for the underground--as we strolled through the home-furnishing district along Western Avenue, close to the waterfront. We stopped in Asian Style and Antique Importers, and I couldn't help but imagine redecorating our home with the fine vases, antiques, and scrolls I saw. But in the interest of keeping the weekend within budget, we moved on.

I had to stop shopping anyway, because we had a boat to catch. We hopped on the Bainbridge Island ferry at its downtown dock and were happy to be out on the water, watching the gray towers of Seattle's skyline recede.

The disembarking crowd led us to Bainbridge Island's small town of Winslow. Gray clouds were gathering, so we ducked into Cafe Nola for soup and salad. By the time we were done, the sky was clear, so we took our time browsing the small town's antiques and craft stores.

We took the long way back to the dock, walking a tree-shrouded trail through a park along the island's shoreline. On the return ferry ride, Jim was relaxed enough to take a quick snooze before we docked.

Making our way back to Belltown, the European charm of the little neighborhood bistro Le Pichet drew us in. The food was superb innovative French, but the ambience was casual. Solo diners at the counter struck up conversations with each other, and many called the waiters by name.

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It was a clear, cool evening, and the view of the bay at night was something to savor. We popped into Maximilien in the Market at Pike Place Market for yet more coffee and watched the lights of the boats serenely crossing inky Elliott Bay.

DAY 3: Rainy-day shelter