Pizza perfect: throw a party with pizzeria-style dough from a champ - Food and Entertaining

Sunset, March, 2004 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Tony Gemignani throws pizza dough like a Harlem Globetrotter works a basketball. He can propel a wheel of dough across his shoulders and spin two rounds at a time, as well as toss and catch them blindfolded.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Tony started developing his technique in 1991, when he and his brother, Frank, opened Pyzano's Pizzeria in Castro Valley, California. To entertain children at the restaurant, Tony started tossing the dough and doing daring tricks with it. He was a natural. When he entered the World Pizza Games in Las Vegas, he won first place three years running. Then he tackled the World Pizza Championship in Italy. Initially the Italians were dubious that anyone from America could present a serious challenge, but after Tony took the top prize two years in a row, they asked him to be a judge. Now he coaches the U.S. team.

"Tossing the dough creates a crust naturally," Tony says. "As you spin the dough in the air, it dries, so it will be crispy on the outside and fluffy in the middle." There are several other critical steps in Tony's dough-making process, some of which actually make his pizza handy to produce for a party. He uses a high-protein, high-gluten flour for strong structure (which makes the dough very easy to handle), good browning, and deep flavor. He wakes the yeast up with warm water, then calms it down with ice-cold water so the dough can rise gradually in the refrigerator overnight and produce consistent results under varied conditions. The sauced rounds can even sit for a few hours before being baked, so it's not a problem if you have only one oven.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

One or two days before your party, mix up the easy sauce and dough (make extra dough, in case some lands on the floor). When your guests arrive, toss the dough and assemble the pizzas--it's fun to do as a group. And if you're a bit of a klutz and flunk the tossing test, you can still make extraordinary crusts by just stretching the dough to size.

To schedule a session with Tony Gemignani, call Pyzano's Pizzeria (510/881-8878). Visit www.uspizzateam.com for information.

Tony's Pizza Dough

PREP TIME: About 20 minutes, plus at least 10 hours to rise

MAKES: Dough for 2 pizzas (14 in. each)

NOTES: If making more than two pizzas, prepare separate batches of dough.

1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
1 cup warm (90[degrees] to 100[degrees]) water
1 cup ice-cold water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
  About 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 cups bread flour

1. In a small bowl, with a fork, stir yeast into warm water. Let stand until yeast is dissolved, about 5 minutes.

2. In another bowl, mix cold water, sugar, and salt until dissolved; stir in oil.

3. If using a heavy-duty standing mixer with a dough hook, place 5 1/4 cups flour in a large bowl. Stir the yeast mixture again to blend, then add to flour along with cold-water mixture. Beat with the dough hook on low speed until mixture is smooth and not sticky, 14 to 16 minutes. (Don't let dough climb up into motor drive; if it threatens to, stop mixer and push dough down. If machine labors, stop and wait a few minutes for motor to cool, then resume.) If dough remains sticky, add 2 more tablespoons flour and beat 2 minutes longer; if still sticky, add another 1 to 2 tablespoons flour and beat until nonsticky and smooth.

If using a heavy-duty food processor, make dough in two batches, using half the ingredients for each: Place 2 3/4 cups flour, half the yeast mixture, and half the cold-water mixture in processor bowl and whirl until dough is smooth and elastic, about 2 minutes. (If machine stops, wait a few minutes, then resume.) If dough is still sticky, add 2 to 3 more teaspoons flour and whirl until dough is smooth. Transfer to a floured board.

4. Scrape dough onto a lightly floured board; cut in half (omit cutting if using processor). With floured hands, pick up one portion of dough; pull opposite edges together toward center and pinch to seal. Repeat all around circumference to form a smooth, tight ball. Place each portion in a 1-gallon plastic bag. Squeeze out air and seal bag, allowing enough room for ball to double. Chill at least 10 hours or up to 2 days.

Quick Pizza Sauce

In a bowl, mix 1 can (14 oz., or 1 3/4 cups) chopped or diced tomatoes (including juices), 1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves or 2 teaspoons dried basil, 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic. Add salt to taste. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Tony's Hand-Tossed Pizza

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes to 1 hour to rise

MAKES: 2 pizzas (14 in.); 8 to 12 servings

NOTES: Start the dough at least 1 day ahead. If making one of "Tony's Favorite Combos," at left, evenly distribute the toppings in the order listed on stretched crust; bake as directed in step 5 unless otherwise noted. Baking pizza on a screen--a rimless mesh or perforated-metal round (available from www.smartandfinal.com and at cookware stores)--allows the crust to brown faster and more evenly on the bottom. If using a baking stone, set it on the bottom rack of a 500[degrees] oven at least 30 minutes before using.