Fresh eyes on the west: tracing the path of Lewis and Clark helps us rediscover the meaning of home - Sunset Grand Tour - Cover Story

Sunset, March, 2004 by Peter Fish

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1 Washington and Oregon: 5 days. See the Columbia River Gorge and the Oregon-Washington coast. Best bases: Hood River, Portland, and Astoria, Oregon.

2 Western Montana and Idaho: 5-6 days. Travel Lemhi and Lolo Passes, and see the new Sacajawea center, Weippe Prairie, and Nez Perce National Historical Park. Best bases: Dillon and Missoula, Montana; Salmon, Idaho.

3 Central Montana: 5-8 days. Visit Great Falls' Lewis and Clark center and explore the Upper Missouri River and its headwaters, with a possible side trip to Pompeys Pillar. Best bases: Great Falls, Fort Benton, and Three Forks.

The Pacific

Cape Disappointment State Park (360/642-3029) has an expanded interpretive center. Fort Clatsop National Memorial (503/861-2471) offers a replica of the Corps' fort, plus living-history programs. The Lewis & Clark Explorer Train (Fri-Mon, May 28-Sep 30; 800/872-7245) runs from Portland to Astoria.

Columbia River

Sacajawea State Park (509/545-2361) displays expedition exhibits. In the Columbia Gorge, hike up 845-foot Beacon Rock. Or join 2-hour cruises on the stern-wheeler Columbia Gorge ($20; 800/643-1354) or the American West Steamboat Company's 7- to 11-night cruises (from $1,493; 800/434-1232).

Weippe Prairie

The Weippe Discovery Center (208/435-4058) has murals of the expedition; the Nez Perce meeting site lies 1 1/2 miles south. In Orofino, Idaho, paddle with Clearwater River Co. (from $45; 208/276-3199). In Spalding, Idaho, Nez Perce National Historical Park (208/843-2261) tells the tribe's story.

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Lolo Pass

In Lolo, Montana, Travelers' Rest State Park (406/273-4253) preserves a Corps campground. From there, follow U.S. 12 toward Lolo Pass, where the Lolo Pass Visitor Center (208/942-3113) offers trail exhibits. Or explore on horse-back with Triple O Outfitters (www.tripleo-outfitters.com or 208/464-2349).

Lemhi Pass

In Dillon, Montana, get directions from the Beaverhead--Deerlodge National Forest (420 Barrett St.; 406/683-3900) to 7,373-foot-high Lemhi Pass National Historic Landmark. On the west side of the pass, Salmon, Idaho's new Sacajawea center (60 State 28; 208/756-1188) tells the story of the expedition's heroine.

Missouri Headwaters

Missouri Headwaters State Park (406/994-4042) is serenely evocative; nearby Three Forks (406/285-4753) has the historic Sacajawea Hotel, the Headwaters Heritage Museum (406/285-4778), and the Three Forks Area Festival of Discovery (Jul 23-24; contact museum).

Great Falls

The Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center (406/727-8733) offers the West's best overview of the expedition. The annual Lewis & Clark Festival (Jun 23-27; 406/452-5661) features reenactments, float trips, hikes, and other fun.

Upper Missouri River

Guided canoe trips run $200-$325 a day for three to five days. Outfitters include River Odysseys West (800/451-6034) and Missouri River Canoe Company (800/426-2926). For a full list, contact the Bureau of Land Management in Fort Benton, Montana (406/622-3839).

Pompeys Pillar