Steak special: fresh ways to dress up classic cuts on the grill

Sunset, Sept, 2004 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

A grilled steak--sans embellishment--makes a special meal. But with little extra effort, you can turn your favorite cut of beef into something extraordinary.

We've dressed up four classic steaks, in their popular--that is, indulgent--sizes. If you are eating more lightly these days, you can buy thinner cuts (see page 100 for cooking tips). Or cook one thick steak for two people; a splurge is even better when shared.

Tenderloin Steaks with Gorgonzola Butter

PREP AND COOK TIME: 25 minutes, plus 30 minutes to marinate

MAKES: 4 servings

NOTES: Steaks from the tenderloin are often called filet mignon.

  4 beef tenderloin steaks (about 2 in. thick, 8 to 10 oz. each; see
    notes)
  1 red onion (12 oz.), peeled and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick
    rounds; ends discarded
3/4 cup tawny Port
  2 tablespoons walnut or vegetable oil
1/4 cup crumbled gorgonzola cheese (1 1/2 oz.), at room temperature
1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter, at room temperature
  2 tablespoons chopped parsley
    Salt and pepper

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

1. Rinse steaks and pat dry; place in a 1-gallon zip-lock plastic bag. Set onion slices in a single layer on a plate. Drizzle 2 tablespoons Port and 1 teaspoon oil over onions. Pour remaining Port and oil over meat; seal bag and turn to coat. Let stand at least 30 minutes, or cover the onions and chill meat and onions up to 2 hours.

2. In a small bowl, beat gorgonzola and butter until well blended and creamy.

3. Lift steaks from marinade (discard marinade) and lay on an oiled barbecue grill over a solid bed of medium coals or medium heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Lay onion slices around steaks. Close lid on gas grill. Cook steaks, turning once, until browned and done to your liking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 16 to 18 minutes for medium-rare. Cook onions, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides. 16 to 18 minutes.

4. Transfer steaks to plates and top with grilled onions, separated into rings. Let rest in a warm place for 3 to 5 minutes. Garnish each with a dollop of gorgonzola butter. Sprinkle with parsley and salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 680 cal., 69% (468 cal.) from fat; 42 g protein; 52 g fat (22 g sat.); 9.9 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 364 mg sodium; 171 mg chol.

Rib-Eye Steaks with Tomato-Basil Relish

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes, plus 15 minutes to marinate

MAKES: 4 servings

NOTES: Well-marbled rib-eyes are cut from the same section as the rib roast.

4 boned beef rib-eye steaks (1 1/2 in. thick, 12 to 16 oz. each; see
  notes)
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound firm-ripe tomatoes
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
1 or 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  Salt and fresh-cracked pepper

1. Trim excess surface fat from steaks. Rinse steaks and pat dry; set in a single layer on a plate. In a small bowl, mix half the vinegar and half the olive oil. Rub mixture all over steaks to coat. Let stand for at least 15 minutes, or cover and chill up to 4 hours.

2. Meanwhile, rinse, core, and coarsely chop tomatoes. In a bowl, mix tomatoes, basil, garlic, and remaining balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Add salt to taste.

3. Lay steaks on an oiled barbecue grill over a solid bed of hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook steaks, turning once, until browned on both sides and done to your liking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 10 to 13 minutes for medium-rare.

4. Transfer steaks to plates. Let rest in a warm place for 3 to 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste and garnish with tomato-basil relish.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Per serving: 635 cal., 51% (324 cal.) from fat; 69 g protein; 36 g fat (12 g sat.); 5.4 g carbo (1.5 g fiber); 176 mg sodium; 193 mg chol.

New York Strip Steaks with Orange and Oregano

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes, plus 30 minutes to marinate

MAKES: 4 servings

NOTES: Steaks cut from the top loin are usually called New York strip steaks.

  4 boned beef top loin steaks (1 1/2 in. thick, 12 to 16 oz. each;
    see notes)
3/4 cup orange juice
1/4 cup red or white wine vinegar
  2 tablespoons Worcestershire
  1 tablespoon olive oil
  2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced About 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse-ground
    pepper
1/4 cup fresh oregano or marjoram leaves
    Salt
  1 orange (8 oz.), rinsed and cut into four wedges

1. Trim excess surface fat from steaks. Rinse steaks and pat dry; place in a 1-gallon zip-lock plastic bag. Add orange juice, vinegar, Worcestershire, olive oil, garlic, and 1 1/2 teaspoons pepper. Seal bag and turn as needed to coat all steaks with marinade. Chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day.

2. Lift steaks from marinade (discard marinade) and lay on an oiled barbecue grill over a solid bed of hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook steaks, turning once, until browned on both sides and done to your liking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 10 to 13 minutes for medium-rare.