Waves and wine; Trip of a lifetime; Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez Valley, Big Sur: a Central Coast road trip makes a vintage romantic getaway

Sunset, Sept, 2005 by Matthew Jaffe

Hansen spent his summers exploring the grottoes and caves along the coastline, surfing its waves, and playing in the forests on San Simeon Point. He left California to work in Florida before returning to renovate and run the store. It's no longer the nuts-and-bolts general store that it once was, and Becky browses through its CDs and gifts. But Hansen also points out the vintage equipment that the last of San Simeon's whaling captains gave to his grandfather, and the old postboxes see a steady stream of locals from up and down the coast. Just as it always has.

Hansen is clearly thrilled to reconnect both to his family's history and the place he considers home. "For people who are native Californians, it's good to go away for a year or two to see how the rest of the world functions," says Hansen. "But there's always a piece of California that calls you back."

Unlike Hansen, we're basically newcomers to California, but I think we've heard the call of this coast too. It's a call where many parts harmonize: the wind, the waves, the high cries of seabirds, and the low moans of elephant seals. You never know. One day our question may change from "What if?" to "Why not?" and this gorgeous coastline of ragged bluffs, sea stacks, and mountains could become home. Or maybe not. But there's certainly no harm in dreaming, right?

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID ZAITZ

RELATED ARTICLE: Road food

* Cafe Quackenbush. Gourmet sandwiches and art gallery just off U.S. 101. $; lunch Tue-Sun, breakfast Sat-Sun. 458 Bell St., Los Alamos; 805/344-5181.

* Fiala's Gourmet Deli, Espresso Bar & Chocolatier. Italian deli with outstanding panini sandwiches in Edna Valley wine country. $; 8-5 daily. 1653 Old Price Canyon Rd., San Luis Obispo; 805/543-1313.

* Taco Temple. A great spot for fish tacos, hidden on a State 1 frontage road. $; lunch and dinner Wed-Mon. 2680 Main St., Morro Bay; 805/772-4965.

RELATED ARTICLE: The road trip

CONTACTS

* Monterey County visitors bureau

(www.montereyinfo.org or 888/221-1010)

* San Luis Obispo County visitors bureau

(www.sanluisobispocounty.com or 800/634-1414)

* Santa Barbara visitors bureau

(www.santabarbaraca.com or 800/676-1266)

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Dining and lodging

Some of our lodging choices are splurges, for more options, see "Contacts."

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

Four Seasons Resort Santa Barbara. Oceanfront classic. From $500, two-night minimum on weekends. 1260 Channel Dr., Santa Barbara, www.fourseasons.com/santabarbara or 888/424-5866.

La Super-Rica. Mexican food well worth long peak-hour waits. $, lunch and dinner daily. 622 N. Milpas St., Santa Barbara; 805/963-4940.

Patrick's Side Street Cafe. Wine country cuisine in relaxed setting. $$$; lunch and dinner Wed-Sun. 2375 Alamo Pintado Rd., Las Olivos; 805/686-4004.

ATASCADERO AND PASO ROBLES

The Carlton Hotel. Handsome, restored hotel near Paso Robles wine country. From $225. 6005 El Camino Real, Atascadero, www.the-carlton.com or 877/204-9830.

21st Street Drive-In. Sip a root beer at this vintage drive-in. $; lunch and dinner daily. 2110 Spring St., Paso Robles; 805/238-0360.