Sunset's western wine awards 2006: the best bottles, winemakers, and places to discover this year

WESTERN VINTNERS CRAFT the most amazing array of wines in the world, from Cabernet to Viognier. To find the best this year, we teamed up with some of the West's most prominent wine experts, including Master Sommeliers, teachers, and writers (read about our process at www.sunset.com/wineawards).

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The results showed some interesting trends. The only winning Cabernet Sauvignon was in the Steal of the Year category, while a Zinfandel took the Special Occasion Red spot. Last year, very few Chardonnays were even nominated; this year, three won in our tasting (our judges sensed a return to balance between oak and fruit in this variety). Finally, two Syrahs were winners. This might be our next big red.

Here are Sunset's picks for 2006.

Steal -- under $15

RED COLUMBIA CREST "GRAND ESTATES" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002 (COLUMBIA VALLEY, WA; $11)

Rich cassis, cedar, and mocha--a "grand" value.

WHITE ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS "NEW GEWURZ" GEWURZTRAMINER 2005 (NORTH COAST, CA; $9)

Lively apple, with honeysuckle and tasty minerals.

Wine of the Year -- $15 to $30

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RED JC CELLARS VENTANA VINEYARD SYRAH 2002 (MONTEREY, CA; $30)

Smoky and earthy, with dark berries and black pepper.

WHITE TALLEY VINEYARDS ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2004 (ARROYO GRANDE VALLEY, CA; $26)

Spicy apple crisp flavors, with a long, creamy finish.

Special Occasion Wine -- $30 to $50

RED PEACHY CANYON "ESPECIAL" ZINFANDEL 2004 (PASO ROBLES, CA; $37)

Like a potful of heirloom plums cooked slowly on the stove, then spiced with black pepper.

WHITE RAMEY HYDE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2003 (CARNEROS, CA; $49)

Toasty oak balanced with citrus, light tropical fruit, and minerals.

Deep Pocket Wine -- over $50

RED PAX CASTELLI-KNIGHT RANCH SYRAH 2004 (RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, CA; $55)

Juicy red berries and currants with white pepper and smoke--rich and sexy.

WHITE GRGICH HILLS "30TH ANNIVERSARY" CHARDON-NAY 2003 (CARNEROS, NAPA VALLEY; $73)

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Intense and elegant--orange zest wrapped in honey. This wine marks the win of Mike Grgich's 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay over all the white Burgundies in the now-famous 1976 Paris Tasting.

Up-and-Coming Wine Region of the Year

SANTA RITA HILLS, CA

Morning ocean fog and afternoon onshore winds have turned Lompoc, California, into one of the West Coast's hottest addresses for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Uniquely oriented from west to east, the Santa Rita Hills--a cool subappellation of the Santa Ynez Valley--produces beautifully structured Pinots, including Sanford, Melville, Fiddlehead, and Sea Smoke.

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Winemaker of the Year

PAUL DRAPER, RIDGE VINEYARDS

Arguably the dean of California winemaking, Paul Draper has advocated balance--no overripe, prodigiously alcoholic wines--for more than three decades. His 1971 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon took fifth place in the 1976 "Judgment of Paris" tasting, and in the even more stunning rematch this year, it swept the field (see our story at www.sunset.com/paris). And while recently, place has become everything for most winemakers, Draper's known it all along; he's always produced single-vineyard Zinfandels (try his Lytton Springs). 17100 Monte Bello Rd., Cupertino, CA; 408/867-3233.

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Wine Pro of the Year

EVAN GOLDSTEIN, M.S., VP OF GLOBAL WINE EDUCATION, BEAM WINE ESTATES

Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein, who started out on the floor of Square One (chef-owner: Joyce Goldstein, aka Mom), was the youngest person in his day to earn the M.S. title. He's packed enough info into his new book, Perfect Pairings, to make mini sommeliers of us all. University of California Press, 2006; $30.

Best Tasting Room

NAVARRO VINEYARDS, ANDERSON VALLEY, CA

California wine touring gets back to its roots in the casual, friendly tasting room that's the hub of Anderson Valley traffic (and home to some of its best-crafted wines). On your way up through Boonville to Mendocino, stop and take a bottle of Navarro's Methode a l'Ancienne Pinot Noir and some smoked salmon from the deli case out to one of the tables under the trellis and taste Anderson Valley. 5601 State 128, Philo, CA; 707/895-3686.

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The Green Award

JOHN WILLIAMS, FROG'S LEAP

Not only does John Williams farm organically, his entire winery is solar-powered and heated and cooled geother-mally. And the new tasting room and offices, built with renewable, low-impact materials, are LEED-certified by the U.S. Green Building Council. Bonus: Frog's Leap wines are yummy. 8815 Conn Creek Rd., Rutherford, CA; 800/959-4704.

Best Wine Bar

FERRY PLAZA WINE MERCHANT, SAN FRANCISCO

Wines by the taste, glass, or themed flight show off interesting varieties, regions, and styles. Nab some cheese from Cowgirl Creamery and a crusty loaf from Acme Bread Company, and watch the Marketplace crowd from the Wine Merchant bar. 1 Ferry Building, San Francisco; 415/391-9400.