The Quick Cook: MEALS IN 30 MINUTES OR LESS - petite roasts - Brief Article

Sunset, Oct, 1999 by Andrew Baker, Christine Weber Hale

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Lamb Loin Roast

Chili Mascarpone Sauce

Roasted Tiny New Potato Halves

Tiny Green Beans

Lemon Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce

Petite roasts for special feasts

* Party meals and elegant roasts go hand in hand. And for the occasion that's intimately scaled, there's a fine selection of diminutive roasts with a big bonus: they can be table-ready in no more than half an hour.

Cuts that work include boned lamb loin (cut from the rack) and tenderloin of beef, pork, or venison. Because these roasts cook quickly, pan-brown them first, then finish in a hot oven; shorter times are for convection baking.

While the roast rests, use the pan with drippings to make a sauce. Five choices that go with every roast follow.

Lamb Loin Roast

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: 6 servings

2 boned lamb loins (about 1 1/2 lb. total), fat-trimmed

Pan sauce (choices follow)

1. Rinse meat and pat dry. Place a 10- to 12-inch nonstick, ovenproof frying pan over high heat. When pan is hot, add lamb and brown well, 4 to 5 minutes.

2. Set frying pan in a 450 [degrees] oven and bake until meat is medium-rare (pink in center of thickest part - cut to test - or 135 [degrees] on a thermometer), 6 to 12 minutes, turning meat over once. Transfer to a platter; keep warm at least 5 minutes. Make sauce in frying pan.

3. Slice meat, adding juices to sauce. Serve sauce with meat.

Per serving: 192 cal., 47% (90 cal.) from fat; 23 g protein; 10 g fat (3.7 g sat.); 0 g carbo; 82 mg sodium; 75 mg chol.

Beef tenderloin. Use 1 1/2 pounds fat-trimmed beef tenderloin. With a sharp knife, cut lengthwise down center of meat and about 2/3 of the way through it. Lay meat open and pat flat. Follow steps for lamb (above), cooking until meat is rare (red in center of thickest part - cut to test - or 125 [degrees] on a thermometer), 7 to 12 minutes.

Per serving: 182 cal., 45% (81 cal.) from fat; 24 g protein; 9 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 0 g carbo; 61 mg sodium; 70 mg chol.

Pork tenderloins. Use 2 fat-trimmed pork tenderloins (about 1 1/2 lb. total). Follow steps for lamb (above), cooking until meat is no longer pink in center of thickest part (cut to test), or 150 [degrees] on a thermometer, 9 to 15 minutes.

Per serving: 136 cal., 26% (35 cal.) from fat; 24 g protein; 3.9 g fat (1.3 g sat.); 0 g carbo; 57 mg sodium; 74 mg chol.

Venison tenderloins. Use 2 venison tenderloins (about 1 1/2 lb. total). Follow steps for lamb (above), cooking until meat is rare (red in center of thickest part - cut to test - or 125 [degrees] on a thermometer), 6 to 12 minutes.

Per serving: 136 cal., 18% (24 cal.) from fat; 26 g protein; 2.7 g fat (1.1 g sat.); 0 g carbo; 58 mg sodium; 96 mg chol.

Pan sauces

Start with roast drippings, preceding.

Blackberry orange. Place frying pan with drippings over high heat. Add 1 1/2 cups fat-skimmed beef broth, 3 tablespoons seedless blackberry jam, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, 1 tablespoon minced orange peel, and 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish. Boil, stirring, until 2/3 cup, about 8 minutes.

Per tablespoon: 19 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0.8 g protein; 0 g fat; 4.2 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 14 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Brandy peppercorn. Place frying pan with drippings over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon butter or margarine, 3/4 cup minced shallots, and 2 tablespoons drained canned green peppercorns. Stir over high heat until shallots are lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add 3/4 cup fat-skimmed beef broth, 1/4 cup brandy, and 2 tablespoons whipping cream. Boil, stirring, until 2/3 cup, about 3 minutes.

Per tablespoon: 36 cal., 53% (19 cal.) from fat; 0.7 g protein; 2.1 g fat (1.3 g sat.); 2.1 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 79 mg sodium; 6.4 mg chol.

Chili mascarpone. Place frying pan with drippings over high heat. Add 1/2 cup fat-skimmed beef broth, 1/3 cup tomato-based chili sauce, 1/3 cup mascarpone or whipping cream, and 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce. Boil, stirring, until 2/3 cup, about 4 minutes.

Per tablespoon: 45 cal., 69% (31 cal.) from fat; 1 g protein; 3.4 g fat (2.4 g sat.); 2.5 g carbo (0 g fiber); 135 mg sodium; 6.6 mg chol.

Paprika. In a blender or food processor, whirl 2 jars (4 oz. each) drained pimientos and 3 tablespoons fat-skimmed chicken broth. Place frying pan with drippings over high heat. Add pimiento mixture. Stir in 1/4 cup sour cream, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon hot paprika. Boil, stirring, until 2/3 cup, about 5 minutes.

Per tablespoon: 19 cal., 63% (12 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 1.3 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 1.5 g carbo (0 g fiber); 7.8 mg sodium; 2.5 mg chol.

Shiitake mushroom. Place frying pan with drippings over high heat. Add 1/4 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth and 1 cup sliced fresh shiitake mushroom caps. Stir over high heat until mushrooms are browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in 1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth, 2 teaspoons oyster sauce, and 1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water. Boil, stirring, until 2/3 cup, about 5 minutes.

Per tablespoon: 8.3 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 1.3 g protein; 0 g fat; 0.8 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 57 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.