Northwest seafood feast - British Columbian foods - Recipe

Sunset, April, 2000 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Refreshingly easy recipes for shrimp and salmon showcase the bounty of British Columbia

Joan and Sid Cross have a passion for superlative food and wine. And they indulge frequently by entertaining at their home by English Bay in Vancouver, British Columbia.

The Crosses have ample resources. British Columbia farmers offer a kaleidoscope of produce, local fisheries supply exquisite fresh seafood, and Vancouver's multiethnic population has enriched the variety of foods in local markets. In the middle of such bounty, Joan has a simple cooking philosophy: "You don't need to work hard with good, fresh ingredients." She simply undertakes to bring out their inherent virtues. Uncomplicated dishes, along with strategic planning and many make-ahead steps, result in parties that appear effortless.

Sid, chair of the International Wine and Food Society's Wines Committee, shares his cellar reserves enthusiastically with guests, often pouring several wines with a single course. For our menu he suggests a couple of British Columbia wines, plus more widely available California, Oregon, and Washington labels, Don't feel bound to restrict any to its designated course; follow Sid's lead and experiment with different food and wine combinations. To locate the B.C. wines in your area, call the wineries. Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars; (250) 497-8244. Burrowing Owl Vineyards; (877) 49-0620.

Pears with Prosciutto

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: If assembling up to 1 hour ahead, moisten pear slices with lemon juice to prevent darkening.

MAKES: 16 pieces; 8 appetizer servings

3 ounces thin-sliced prosciutto

1 firm-ripe Bosc pear (8 to 10 oz.)

1. Cut prosciutto into strips about 2 inches wide and 3 1/2 inches long.

2. Rinse pear and pat dry; cut in half lengthwise and core. Cut each pear half lengthwise into 8 equal slices.

3. Wrap prosciutto strips equally around pear slices. Arrange on a small platter. Pick up to eat.

Per piece: 20 cal., 36% (7.2 cal.) from fat; 1.6 g protein; 0.8 g fat (0.2 g sat.); 2 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 98 mg sodium; 4.3 mg chol.

Charlotte's Marinated Prawns

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours

NOTES: When they're in season, Joan (who gave her first name to this recipe) prefers to use British Columbia spot prawns. If time is short, omit the court bouillon and cook the shellfish in 2 quarts water with 1 thin-sliced lemon. If making up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill shellfish in marinade; store cool toast airtight at room temperature.

MAKES: 8 servings

Court bouillon (recipe follows)

2 pounds (26 to 30 per lb.) shrimp or spot prawns (see notes), rinsed

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 clove garlic, peeled and halved

1/4 cup minced parsley

3 tablespoons minced fresh chives or green onions

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves, dried thyme, or fresh marjoram leaves

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Salt and pepper

3/4 pound baguettes (about 1 1/2 loaves) or thin-sliced firm white bread

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring court bouillon to a boil. Add shrimp, cover, and cook until opaque but still moist-looking in the center of the thickest part (cut to test), 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Drain shrimp in a colander set over a bowl; reserve court bouillon. Rinse shrimp with cold water; when cool enough to handle, peel and devein.

3. In a large bowl, mix 1/2 cup court bouillon (reserve remainder for other uses or discard), oil, lemon juice, garlic, parsley, chives, thyme, and mustard. Add shrimp and mix well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill at least 2 hours or up to 1 day, stirring occasionally.

4. Cut baguettes into 1/4- to 3/4-inchthick slices (or cut white bread slices diagonally into quarters to make triangles). Put a wire rack on each of 2 baking sheets, 12 by 15 inches, and arrange slices equally on racks. Broil 3 to 4 inches from heat, turning once, until bread is lightly toasted on each side, about 4 minutes total.

5. Remove garlic from shrimp mixture and discard. To eat, spoon chilled shrimp and marinade onto toasted bread.

Per serving: 339 cal., 45% (153 cal.) from fat; 23 g protein; 17 g fat (2.6 g sat.); 24 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 442 mg sodium; 140 mg chol.

Court Bouillon

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill. Use for poaching seafood, then strain and save the liquid to use as a base for fish soups; store airtight in the freezer.

MAKES: About 2 1/4 quarts

In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, combine 2 quarts water, 1 cup dry vermouth, 6 thin lemon slices, 6 thin onion slices, 3 rinsed parsley sprigs (about 6 in.), 1 rinsed fresh thyme sprig (4 in.) or 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 2 dried whole bay leaves, and 12 black peppercorns. Cover and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes.

Per cup: 6.6 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0.1 g protein; O g fat; 1.6 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 2.6 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Pesto Salmon

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: Up to 1 day ahead, coat salmon with half the pesto (step 3), cover, and chill; cover remaining pesto separately and chill. If serving fish at room temperature, grill up to 2 hours ahead.