The subtle side of Sedona - Brief Article

Sunset, Oct, 2000 by Nora Burba Trulsson

* Admittedly, it has been a few decades since I spent time in Sedona. Back then, it was lazy weekends picnicking by--and whooshing down--the natural sandstone water chute at Slide Rock. Sedona was laid-back then, full of old-timers whose ancestors farmed vegetables and planted apple trees in the area's verdant canyons and valleys to supply produce for nearby mining and lumber towns. It was also full of artists who came to reside in a red rock Bohemia--surrealist Max Ernst once lived here--and to sell their work through a sprinkling of local galleries.

We would spend the days hiking, enjoying the gorgeous scenery; exploring Native American ruins, and trying to figure out exactly where Broken Arrow, Johnny Guitar, and other westerns were filmed. Sedona was simple.

The town has changed a bit since those youthful forays. During the past 20 years, the area has boomed with newcomers escaping big cities, hoping to carve out a niche amid the mesas. Subdivisions, stretch limos, helicopter tours, crystal shops, and energy vortexes have arrived, and tourism has increased manyfold--now there's something for everyone.

Spend a few days here, though, and the hyperactivity of the new proves to be just a minor distraction from Sedona's original charms--nature, history, and the arts. Get out into the surrounding Coconino National Forest and its wilderness areas, and you can easily be alone.

Fall is a great time to visit. Summer crowds have thinned. It's apple harvest time, and the cool nights begin to color the oaks, sycamores, and aspens red, orange, and gold, complementing the rust and ocher hues of those famous rock formations.

Sedona is about 120 miles north of Phoenix via Interstate 17 to State 179. Area code is 520 unless noted.

Get oriented. The drivers of Pink Jeep Tours (from $32; 204 N. State 89A; 800/873-3662) know their ruins and their rocks, and they share it all on their wide-ranging excursions.

Casual lunch. You'll be windswept and dusty after those backroads., so head for the deck at the Hideaway (221 State 179; 282-4204), which overlooks Oak Creek and tempts with salads, deli sandwiches, and pizza.

New history center. Housed in what was once the family homestead of an apple farm, the Sedona Heritage Museum (10-4 daily; $3 ages 3 and over; 735 Jordan Rd.; 282-7038) has exhibits on early settlers and westerns filmed in Sedona.

The Sedona snapshot. Photographers stake out spots early for that perfect 30 seconds of sunset light on the rocks at Crescent Moon Red Rock Crossing ($5 per car; Upper Red Rock Loop and Chavez Ranch roads; 282-4119). This recreation area has trails and benches along Oak Creek and the landmark vista facing Cathedral Rock.

Dine charmingly. Entrees at cottagey Heartline Cafe (1610 W State 89A; 282-0785) include local trout and duck with dried-cherry relish.

Saturday

Huevos rancheros. Enjoy breakfast on the deck of Junipine Cafe at Junipine Resort (8351 N. State 89A; 282-7406). Hike off the calories. Soak up some nature and history on the West Fork/Call of the Canyon Trail (trailhead is at Call of the Canyon day-use area, 10 miles north of town on State 89A; $5 per car, limited parking; 204-9462). This moderately easy trail winds past an old apple orchard and the ruins of a 1920s guest lodge, then zigzags across the creek in a narrow side canyon for 3.4 miles one way.

Slide Rock picnic. Pick up sandwiches, fresh apples, and fresh-pressed cider at Indian Gardens Trading Post (3951 N. State 89A; 282-7702), then head to Slide Rock State Park ($5 per car; 6871 N. State 89A; 282-3034). By fail, the water is usually too icy to whoosh down the creek's natural water slide, but the park also encompasses the historic Pendley family orchards and homestead. Buy apples plucked from century-old trees, or join the free Saturday tours of the home and apple-packing shed at 1 P.M.

Dinner, pardner. A local hangout since 1946, and a favorite watering hole of western film stars--Rainbows End (3235 W State 89A; 282-1593) is the place for a steak.

Sunday

Creekside brunch. The menu is classic French, and the burble of running water at L'Auberge de Sedona (11-3 Sun, reservations suggested; 301 L'Auberge Lane; 282-1667) is hypnotic.

Gallery hopping. The nonprofit Sedona Arts Center (State 89A and Art Barn Rd.; 282-3865) features the work of local artists.

The Mexican colonial-style shopping village at Tiaque-paque (State 179 near Schnebly Hill Rd.; 282-4838) has several galleries. Check out Kuivato (282-1212) for studio glass, El Prado Galleries (282-7390) for its sculpture garden, and Mountain Trails Galleries (800/527-6556) for Western art.

Whimsical jewelry, sculpture, and paintings can be found at Robert Shields Design Studio Store (181 State 179; 282-5343). The mime-entertainer (remember Shields and Yarnell?) has turned his talents to visual arts.

On the western edge of town, the newly opened Sedona Cultural Park (State 89A at Cultural Park Place; 282-0747) offers theater, music, and dance performances at its outdoor pavilion, plus a visitor center and a nature tail.