Slow cookin' - Brief Article - Abstract

Sunset, Oct, 2000 by Paula Freschet

Let meat and veggies bubble untended in an electric slow-cooker; a very satisfying supper will be ready at the end of the day

There was a time--30 or so years ago--when a wedding shower would produce a half-dozen Crock-Pots, easy. "A bride's best friend," they were called. And now that all things '70s are cool again, electric slow-cookers are shedding their back-of-the-cupboard spider webs and rejoining the kitchen workforce.

Curiously enough, we need them now more than ever. The two-career, two-child, two-lessons-a-day family has precious little time to produce a wholesome, appealing dinner. And this reliable appliance can save the day. The claims it made three decades ago are true: With minimal effort, you can fill a slow-cooker with vegetables and meat or poultry in the morning, give it almost no attention thereafter, and it will produce a handsome meal in the evening. The cookers require no added fat and need only a small amount of added liquid to do their job because their tight-fitting lids trap the moisture as the foods simmer gently to tenderness.

We've put together a collection of homey dishes--wine-simmered pot roast, lamb shanks with artichokes and olives, five spice pork, and more--that show how versatile slow-cookers can be. Most of the recipes are designed for a 4 1/2- to 6-quart model; if yours is smaller, adjust ingredient amounts proportionately. For best results, the cooker should be at least half full. It must be kept covered to retain moisture and heat.

Cooking rates vary from model to model. But lack of precision is one of the beauties of this relaxed method--30 minutes to an hour one way or the other won't significantly damage the results; if a dish you've been cooking on high is ready before you want to serve it, just turn the cooker to low to hold the food.

Merlot Pot Roast with Horseradish Smashed Potatoes

PREP AND COOK TIME: 8 1/2 to 9 1/2 hours on low, 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 hours on high

NOTES: Prepare the smashed potatoes as soon as the beef is tender; the meat can continue to cook until they're ready.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

1 tied fat-trimmed boned beef chuck roast (3 to 3 1/2 lb.) Fresh-ground pepper

1 tablespoon butter or olive oil

3 carrots (about 1/4 lb. each), rinsed and peeled

1 onion (1/2 lb.), peeled and chopped

2/3 cup chopped celery

3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 dried bay leaf

1 cup Merlot or other dry red wine

1/3 cup canned tomato paste

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch Horseradish smashed potatoes (recipe follows)

1 tablespoon minced parsley

1 to 2 cups watercress sprigs, rinsed and crisped (optional)

Salt

1. Rinse beef, pat dry, and sprinkle generously all over with fresh-ground pepper. Melt butter in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat. When hot, add beef and brown well on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes total.

2. Meanwhile, cut carrots into sticks about 3/8 inch thick and 2 inches long. In a 4 1/2-quart or larger electric slow-cooker, combine carrots, onion, celery, garlic, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Set beef on vegetables; add drippings. In a small bowl, mix wine and tomato paste; pour over meat and vegetables.

3. Cover and cook until beef is very tender when pierced, 8 to 9 hours on low, 5 to 6 hours on high. If possible, turn meat over halfway through cooking.

4. With 2 slotted spoons, transfer meat to a platter; keep warm. Skim and discard any fat from cooking liquid. Turn cooker to high. In a small bowl, blend cornstarch with 1 1/2 tablespoons water; pour into cooker and stir often until sauce is bubbling, 10 to 15 minutes.

5. With a slotted spoon, lift vegetables from cooker and arrange beside meat. Spoon horseradish smashed potatoes onto platter; sprinkle with parsley. Garnish platter with watercress. Spoon sauce over meat. Slice meat and serve with vegetables, potatoes, and sauce, adding salt to taste.

Per serving without potatoes: 314 cal., 40% (126 cal.) from fat; 34 g protein; 14 g fat (5.6 g sat.); 11 g carbo (2.3 g fiber); 256 mg sodium; 115 mg chol.

Horseradish smashed potatoes. Scrub and peel 3 to 3 1/2 pounds russet potatoes; cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks. Put them in a 4- to 5-quart pan with 2 1/2 quarts water. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat, cover, and simmer until potatoes mash easily when pressed, 20 to 25 minutes.

When potatoes are done, heat 1 to 1 1/2 cups half-and-half (light cream) or fat-skimmed chicken broth with 2 tablespoons butter or margarine in a microwave-safe container in a microwave oven at full power (100%) just until steaming (don't boil), 1 to 3 minutes. Or warm in a 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan over medium heat.

While cream heats, drain potatoes and mash in pan with a mixer or potato masher until almost smooth. Add cream, a portion at a time, and mix until potatoes have the consistency desired. Stir in salt, pepper, and 1 to 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish to taste. Mound beside Merlot pot roast (preceding) or scrape into a bowl. Makes 6 to 7 cups; 6 to 8 servings.