Living with wildfire - living in the country side

Sunset, April, 2001 by Matthew Jaffe

Defensible zones

The concept of defensible space is based on some simple principles.

1. Keep the area around the house free of potential fuel, such as overhanging tree branches (prune them to 15 to 20 feet away from the house) or woodpiles (stack them 30 feet away and uphill from house, sheds, or fences).

2. Do not landscape with flammable plants--those whose leaves are high in oils or resins (such as junipers), or low in moisture (see box below); keep all plantings well watered and free of dead material.

3. Thin dense stands of trees or shrubs to prevent them from fueling an intense buildup of fire and to eliminate fire "ladders"--plantings at graduated heights that allow fire to climb from the ground through tall shrubs and low tree branches up to treetops and roofs.

4. Keep property clear of debris.

5. Create fuel breaks where possible: Install a pool or other water feature, build fences with nonflammable materials, and cover open ground with gravel, rock, brick, paving, or other nonflammable substances.

Wildfire spreads most readily in the wildland-urban interface, where homes are surrounded by native vegetation and woodland. In such locations, homeowner precautions are not only recommended, they may be required. What's right for your home will depend on the size and slope of your property (if you have a steep slope, take maximum precautions), your neighborhood, the type of climate and surrounding vegetation, and local regulations. Local fire departments are the best source of information for your area. The following zone guidelines (detailed on pages 132 and 133) are adapted from Colorado State Forest Service recommendations and are designed for homes in interface areas. Adapt these guidelines to your property.

ZONE 1. This zone extends 30 feet around the structure (up to 100 feet in high-hazard areas), measured outward from house eaves and attached structures like decks. Plant nothing within 3 to 5 feet of the house. Beyond that, maintain an irrigated greenbelt with ground covers, lawn, or mowed native vegetation. If you leave a tree in this zone, consider it part of the structure and extend the defensible space accordingly.

ZONE 2. This area, which extends 75 to 100 feet outward from the structure (farthest on sloped properties and in dry-summer areas), is a fuel reduction zone. Clear away all dead vegetation, remove tree branches below 10 feet, and properly space plants (there should be 10 feet between the crowns of trees, for instance). Irrigate if possible.

ZONE 3. This is any area of native vegetation extending beyond the edge of your groomed space. If possible, remove diseased or dying trees and keep trails clear.

Lance Walheim

It starts with the roof

When temperatures reach upwards of 2,000[degrees], as they did at the climax of the Oakland/Berkeley Hills fire (Tunnel fire) of 1991, everything burns and there's nothing you can do to stop the oncoming conflagration. But if you take steps to make your house resistant to lesser fires, it may survive.