Spring lamb feast - cooking

Sunset, April, 2001 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

A simple, fresh Easter menu from the vineyards of Portugal

* On the steep hills of the port-producing Douro River Valley in northern Portugal, the seven siblings of the Viseu family tend the vineyards their great-grandfather bought in 1820. "The Quinta de Santa Eufemia represents our roots," explains Bernardo Viseu. And as they manage the estate, they nurture those ancestral roots, gathering in the vineyards on weekends and holidays for hearty family feasts.

I shared one such festive meal with the clan in the winery overlooking their vines. The menu, bursting with the greens of spring and anchored by a leg of lamb, would be ideal for Easter dinner. As with most Portuguese food, the familiar ingredients and flavors--fresh vegetables and tender lamb, embellished very simply with garlic, herbs, and olive oil--are easy to embrace and produce. The golden flan, kissed with port, melts in your mouth.

Products from Portugal, such as cheese and wine, give the menu authenticity but aren't essential. The imported cheeses are available in some specialty food stores; Joe Matos Cheese Factory in Santa Rosa, California, makes a Portuguese-style cheese (to order, call 707/584-5283). Port is widely available here, of course; see page 184 for a discussion of this signature Portuguese wine.

Salted Roasted Almonds

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 2 days ahead, store airtight at room temperature.

MAKES: About 2 cups; 8 servings

2 cups blanched almonds (3/4 lb.)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil About 1/4 teaspoon kosher or regular salt

1. In a 9- by 13-inch pan, mix almonds with oil.

2. Bake in a 350[degrees] regular or convection oven until nuts are golden, 12 to 14 minutes, stirring once about halfway through. Add salt to taste. Let cool completely.

Per serving: 264 cal., 82% (216 cal.) from fat; 8.7 g protein; 24 g fat (2.4 g sat.); 7.9 g carbo (4.8 g fiber); 49 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Garbanzo and Watercress Soup

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: Bright green watercress adds a peppery bite to this simple garbanzo soup. For a vegetarian dish, use vegetable broth. Prepare through step 4 up to 1 day ahead; cover garbanzo mixture and watercress separately and chill. Reheat garbanzo mixture and continue.

MAKES: About 3 quarts; 8 servings

1 onion (3/4 lb.)

2 carrots (1/2 lb. total)

4 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 cans (15 oz. each) reduced-sodium garbanzos

2 quarts fat-skimmed chicken or vegetable broth

1/4 pound watercress

Salt and pepper

1. Peel and chop onion, carrots, and garlic. In a 4- to 5-quart nonstick pan over high heat, stir vegetables in olive oil until onion is limp, 4 to 5 minutes.

2. Drain and rinse garbanzos. Add garbanzos and broth to pan. Cover and bring to a boil; reduce heat to low and simmer until carrots are tender when pierced, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, remove and discard any yellow or wilted leaves from watercress; rinse and drain watercress. Pluck off about 2 cups tender sprigs (about 3 in. long). Chop enough remaining watercress, including stems, to make about 1/2 cup; reserve remainder for another use or discard.

4. Working in batches, whirl all but 4 1/2 cups garbanzo mixture in a blender until smooth, holding lid down with a towel. Return puree to pan with remaining garbanzo mixture.

5. Stir often over high heat until boiling; add watercress sprigs and chopped watercress and stir until wilted, about 30 seconds. Add salt and pepper to taste. Ladle soup into bowls.

Per serving: 201 cal., 14% (29 cal.) from fat; 19 g protein; 3.2 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 36 g carbo (13 g fiber); 470 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Butter Lettuce and Cilantro Salad

PREP TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Rinse and crisp lettuce up to 1 day ahead.

MAKES: 8 servings

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 clove garlic, peeled and pressed or minced

3 quarts bite-size pieces rinsed and crisped butter lettuce (about 1 lb.)

1 1/2 cups cherry tomatoes, rinsed, stemmed, and halved

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro Salt and pepper

1. In a large bowl, mix oil, lemon juice, and garlic.

2. Add lettuce, tomatoes, and cilantro; mix salad gently Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 73 cal., 89% (65 cal.) from fat; 0.9 g protein; 7.2 g fat (1 g sat.); 2.6 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 5.5 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Herbs

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 hours

NOTES: Prepare through step 2 up to 1 day ahead; cover lamb and chill.

MAKES: 8 servings

1 leg of lamb (5 to 6 lb.)

3 tablespoons dry white wine or lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon crushed or crumbled dried bay leaves

About 1/2 teaspoon pepper Salt

1. Rinse lamb and pat dry; trim off and discard excess surface fat.

2. In a small bowl, mix wine, parsley mint, olive oil, garlic, paprika, bay leaves, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Rub all over lamb.

3. Set lamb on a rack in an 11- by 17-inch pan. Roast in a 375[degrees] regular or convection oven until a thermometer inserted through thickest part of meat to the bone registers 140[degrees] for medium-rare, about 1 1/2 hours, or 150[degrees] for medium, about 1 3/4 hours. If drippings begin to burn, pour water into pan, 1/4 cup at a time, as needed.