Seattle 2001

Sunset, Oct, 2001 by Steven R. Lorton

Inside, high-tech exhibits plunge you into musical worlds ranging from jazz to country-western. Guitars, posters, and costumes illuminate careers of musicians from headliners like Ray Charles to lesser-known lights like blueswoman Mamie Smith. Top off your tour with a stop at EMP's Turntable Restaurant or its Liquid Lounge. "Are you experienced?" Jimi Hendrix asked. After a visit here, you will be. $19.95. Fifth at Harrison St.; (877) 367-5483 or www.emplive.com.

SEATTLE ART MUSEUM (SAM)

Ten years ago, SAM boldly moved from sedate Volunteer Park to a scruffy section of First Avenue best known for pawn shops and blue movie houses. When the Robert Venturi--designed museum opened its doors, one neighboring business, the Lusty Lady Theater, greeted the newcomer on its marquee: "Welcome SAM! Once you've seen their nudes, come in and see ours."

Today, First Avenue is almost chic (although the Lusty Lady is still in business), and SAM has become one of Seattle's favorite places to spend an afternoon. Outside the boldly ornamented building, a 48-foot-tall, 13-ton sculpture called Hammering Man swings a hammer all day, every day except Labor Day. Inside, SAM displays fine collections of Northwest Coast Native American art, African art, and contemporary art. Closed Mon; $7. 100 University St.; (206) 654-3100 or www.seattleartmuseum.org.

BENAROYA HALL

This is home to the Seattle Symphony, but even before the conductor lifts his baton, you get a show. Seattle's new performance hall is a stunner.

Start by lingering in the outdoor garden, then enter beneath one of the Dale Chihuly chandeliers and walk up the stairs to the Promenade and a superb view of Seattle's business district. Once inside the 2,500-seat main auditorium, you're sitting in a makore-paneled space considered among America's most acoustically perfect.

The symphony season stretches from September to July. In addition to regular performances conducted by Gerard Schwarz, Benaroya hosts many guest performers. Between Second and Third Avenues and University and Union Streets; 215-4747 or www.seattlesymphony.org.

FERRY TO WINSLOW

Ferries are to Seattle what gondolas are to Venice--and anyone who tries to leave town without riding one should be dunked in Puget Sound. The 35-minute ferry trip to Winslow, on Bainbridge Island, is a classic.

Go to the terminal at Pier 52. Buy a foot-passenger ticket or walk-on, round-trip, to Bainbridge Island ($4.50). When the gate opens, rush onto the boat and get a window seat or take your position out on the deck. After a vessel-rattling blast of the foghorn, your boat moves out, opening up a view of the city that is just plain thrilling. Your destination, Winslow, is a pleasant town with some attractive galleries and restaurants, easily worth an hour or three before you return to the city. Ferries to Bainbridge Island run every 50 minutes from 6:20 A.M. to 2:10 A.M. Pier 52, Alaskan Way; 464-6400 or www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries.> Hungry in Seattle: A diner's guide

Cynthia Nims

Seattle is not the restaurant town it was 20 years ago. While there will always be room on the city's menus for Northwestern classics--treats like alder-grilled salmon and summer berry cobblers--the increasing breadth and diversity of the local culinary talent is giving diners plenty to dig into beyond the traditional hallmarks of Northwestern cuisine.