Seattle 2001

Sunset, Oct, 2001 by Steven R. Lorton

$ = less than $15 * $$ = $15-$25 * $$$ = more than $25

Dahlia Lounge. Seattle superchef Tom Douglas opened this, the first of his three restaurants (the other two are Etta's Seafood and Palace Kitchen), in 1989. Of the trio, the Dahlia Lounge has always had the strongest Northwestern emphasis, the menu drawing freely from local products--razor clams and artisan cheeses. The restaurant moved to a new, bigger space last year; be sure to visit the Dahlia Bakery next door. $$. 2001 Fourth Ave., (206) 682-4142.

Earth & Ocean. Each night, in addition to the la carte menu, executive chef Johnathan Sundstrom produces two prix-fixe options: the "grower's menu," a vegetarian lineup featuring products from local farms, and a menu sauvage, highlighting wild and foraged foods, such as squab with morel mushrooms and ramps. Executive pastry chef Sue McCown produces finales that are both whimsical and seriously delicious. $$. In the W Seattle Hotel, 1112 Fourth; 264-6060.

Le Gourmand. Since 1985, Bruce Naftaly's Ballard restaurant has been offering outstanding food--as deeply rooted in the region as you could hope for. The sauce that accompanies the signature boeuf a la ficelle (organic Washington beef tenderloin) is flavored with Cabernet pressings from Chinook Wines in Yakima Valley. Poppy seeds in the house-made crackers (served with buttery rabbit liver pate) come from flowers Naftaly grows in the garden alongside the restaurant. $$$. 425 N.W Market St.; 784-3463.

Macrina Bakery & Cafe. Bread and pastries are available throughout the day at this bustling Belltown bakery; at lunchtime the focus turns to light savory fare, including panini, pizzetti, and a mix-and-match meze plate. Weekend brunches are more substantial, including the delicious Macrina fried egg sandwich. $. 2408 First Ave.; 448-4032,

Restaurant Zoe. This appealing Belltown restaurant just celebrated its first anniversary. Pleasers from Scott Staples's menu include grilled romaine salad with apples, bacon, and Roquefort and house-smoked hanger steak. A superb staff strikes an ideal balance between professionalism and friendliness. $$. 2137 Second Ave.; 256-2060.

Where to stay

For a city with hotels by the score, Seattle can be a tough place to find a bed--hotels are often booked solid through the summer, and anytime a big convention is in town. Therefore, don't show up without a reservation. Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau has listings, maps, and brochures. 8:30-5 Mon-Fri. Ground floor of the Washington State Convention & Trade Center at Eighth Ave. and Pike St.; (206) 461-5840 or www.seeseattle.org.

Alexis Hotel. Part of the Kimpton Group, the Alexis boasts historic charm; its restaurants--the Bookstore Bar & Cafe and the Painted Table--are good too. From $295. 1007 First Ave.; (206) 624-4844.

Elliott Grand Hyatt Seattle. Big and very chic, this 425-room hotel opened in July. From $370. 721 Pine St.; 774-1234, (800) 233-1234, or www.hyatt.com.

Four Seasons Olympic Hotel. With its oak-paneled lobby, the Olympic has been a Seattle institution since 1924. From $335. 411 University St.; 621-1700, (800) 223-8772, or www.fourseasons.com.