A sip of Santa Ynez: North of Santa Barbara, find superb food, charming small towns-and some grand wines - Santa Ynez Valley, California

Sunset, April, 2002 by Matthew Jaffe

Rancho Sisquoc Winery. 6600 Foxen Canyon; (805) 934-4332.

Foxen. Rustic roadside shack with fine Syrahs and Cabernets, Closed Tue-Wed. 7200 Foxen Canyon; (805) 937-4251.

Bedford Thompson Winery & Vineyard. A small and charming tasting room in an old farmhouse at combination vineyard and cattle ranch. It's a bit off the main route (though it's also accessible from U.S. 101). 9303 Ailsos Canyon Rd.; (805) 344-2107.

* SANTA RITA HILLS. This roughly 35-mile route hits only five wineries, but it takes you into the heart of the new Santa Rita Hills appellation. With this area's emphasis on cooler-climate grapes, such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the drive offers a nice look at the diversity of the Santa Barbara wine country. From Buellton, take Santa Rosa Road west, then State 1 north to State 246 east.

Mosby Winery & Vineyards. 9496 Santa Rosa Rd.; (800) 706-6729.

Sanford Winery & Vineyards. 7250 Santa Rosa; (800) 426-9463.

Lafond Winery & Vineyards. The new contemporary-styled tasting room is among the most distinctive in the county. 6855 Santa Rosa; (877) 708-9463.

Babcock Winery & Vineyards. One of the most westerly in the county, Babcock is considered to be among the country's top small wineries. Closed Mon-Thu. 5175 E State 246; (805) 736-1455.

Melville Vineyards & Winery. Closed Mon-Thu. 5185 E. State 246, (805) 735-7030.

OTHER DESTINATIONS

Nojoqui Falls County Park. A pretty drive down Alisal Road from Solvang leads to these hidden falls, which should be running nicely through spring, It's an easy 1/4. mile walk to the falls. (805) 934-6123.

Old Mission Santa lnes. Notable for its original paintings and gardens, it has a beautiful view of the valley, $3. 1760 Mission Dr., Solvang; (805) 688-4815.

Sedgwick Reserve. The onetime cattle ranch offers a number of programs for the public, including guided hikes and naturalist lectures. The wildflower bloom should be outstanding in April. (805) 686-1941.

DINING

Cafe Chardonnay. Be sure to try chef Humberto Huizar's signature potato-crusted salmon or sesame and black pepper ahi tuna. 2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard; (805) 688-7770.

Hitching Post. In Buellton, off U.S. 101 just west of Solvang, Frank Ostini offers the best barbecued steaks in the valley--in half a state's worth of valleys, for that matter--matched with his own (very good) wine. 406 E. State 246; (805) 688-0676.

Los Olivos Cafe & Wine Merchant. Two quests can be satisfied at once in this bustling establishment: one for a good lunch or dinner, the other for an interesting wine (local or non) to sip with it or pack home. Tom Meyer and Richard Roe, executive chef and sous chef, respectively, are partial to Italian specialties; try their chicken and portabella ravioli in white wine-cream sauce if it's listed. 2879 Grand, Los Olivos; (805) 688-7265.

Roasted Bean. Popular hangout for lattes and the like. 3558-A Sagunto St., Santa Ynez; (805) 688-7194.

Trattoria Grappolo. Tables in the friendly tiled and muraled dining room are filled every evening with local families and horseloving celebrities. 3687-C Sagun to, Santa Ynez; (805) 688-6899.