A sip of Santa Ynez: North of Santa Barbara, find superb food, charming small towns-and some grand wines - Santa Ynez Valley, California

Sunset, April, 2002 by Matthew Jaffe

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 cup whipping cream Salt and pepper

8 large eggs

4 thick slices (about 2 oz. each) challah

4 ounces Appenzell or gruyere cheese, thinly sliced

4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto

4 ounces salad mix (about 2 qts.), rinsed and crisped

1. In a small bowl, with a fork, blend butter and 1 tablespoon mustard.

2. Combine wine and shallots in a 1 1/2 to 2-quart pan; stir often over medium-high heat until liquid is almost evaporated, 5 to 6 minutes. Whisk in cream and remaining 1 tablespoon mustard. Simmer, stirring often, until sauce is reduced to 1 cup and is thick enough to coat spoon in a velvety layer, 8 to 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

3. Meanwhile, in a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 4 inches of water to a boil. With a slotted spoon, immerse each whole egg in water for 10 seconds. Lift out. Pour out all but 1 inch water; reduce heat so bubbles on pan bottom pop to the surface only occasionally.

4. Spread 11/2 teaspoons mustard butter on one side of each slice of bread. Lay, buttered side down, on a griddle or in two 10- to 12- inch frying pans over medium-high heat; spread remaining butter mixture over tops of slices. When bottoms are lightly browned, in about 3 minutes, turn slices over. Top equally with cheese. Reduce heat to medium.

5. One at a time, crack eggs and, holding close to surface of water, break open and let egg slide in. Cook to desired doneness (poke with a spoon to check), 4 minutes for soft yolks.

6. When cheese on sandwiches begins to melt, in 2 to 3 minutes, top with prosciutto; cook until warm, about 2 minutes.

7. Mound salad mix on plates. Transfer a sandwich to each mound. With a slotted spoon, lift poached eggs from water and set two on each sandwich. Ladle mustard-wine sauce over eggs. Serve immediately, adding more salt and pepper to taste.

Per sandwich: 768 cal., 63% (486 cal.) from fat; 36 g protein; 54 g fat (27 g sat.); 33 g carbo (1.7 g fiber): 1,321 mg sodium; 598 mg chol,

CAFE CHARDONNAY

Grilled Lamb Loin with Cabernet-Mint Sauce and Garlic Mashed Potatoes

If the name reflects the theme of the place, the chef's story embodies its potential: Just seven years ago, Humberto Huizar was a dishwasher in the kitchen; now he skillfully combines flavors in the compositions that go out on the plates.

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours, plus at least 4 hours to marinate

NOTES: Have the butcher bone a lamb loin (1 3/4 to 2 lb.; make sure you don't get a tenderloin or the sirloin) and roll and tie it into a roast about 8 inches long and 2 1/2 inches wide. You can marinate the lamb and prepare the sauce through step 3 up to 1 day ahead; bring sauce to a simmer over low heat before serving. Pour Buttonwood Farm Winery's "Trevin" Bordeaux blend to match the Cabernet sauce here.

MAKES: 3 to 4 servings

1 fat-trimmed lamb loin, boned, roiled, and tied (about 1 lb. total; see notes)

30 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 cup plus 1/2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar