Sandwich special - Food Guide - Recipe

Sunset, April, 2002 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Egg salad savoir faire

The egg--a pillar in many cuisines--embodies simplicity and sophistication. Its form has no wasted line. Its taste is delicate yet satisfying. And in a sandwich, it's a chameleon--capable of pleasing one and all.

At home, David and I are prone to impromptu gatherings, with menus that necessarily grow from staples on hand, including the incredible egg. When we use it for open-faced sandwiches, with whatever bread and toppings are available, and put a small green salad alongside, we have a rather significant meal--without significant effort.

Toppings we use on many occasions are smoked salmon or trout, marinated red peppers, or marinated mushrooms (all from the larder). We've even been known to do as chef Anne Gingrass does at Desiree Cafe in San Francisco's Presidio: Sizzle tender oyster mushrooms in butter until faintly browned, drizzle them with a little white truffle oil, and spoon them over the egg salad. Short of wild mushrooms and truffle oil, our favorite embellishments are these made-in-minutes pickled onions and marinated cucumbers.

Sumptuous Egg Salad Sandwiches

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: The texture of the salad depends on how you mash the eggs: For a fluffier quality, separate the whites and yolks and mash with a fork or whirl separately in a food processor to desired consistency; for a creamier texture, mash or whirl whites and yolks together. As flavor alternatives, substitute 1 teaspoon curry powder and/or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill for the tarragon. You can make the egg salad (step 1), Pickled Onion Salad, and Melted Cucumbers up to 1 day ahead; cover separately and chill.

MAKES: 4 servings

8 hard-cooked large eggs, shelled and mashed (see notes) About 1/2 cup mayonnaise (regular or reduced fat) or sour cream (or equal portions of each)

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon or 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon (see notes)

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves or dried thyme Salt and pepper

6 cups baby salad mix, rinsed and crisped

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

8 slices dense-textured pumpernickel bread or toasted firm-textured white bread or 4 English muffins, split and toasted

Pickled Onion Salad (recipe follows)

Melted Cucumbers (recipe follows)

1. In a bowl, mix eggs with enough mayonnaise for desired consistency. Stir in mustard, tarragon, and thyme. Add salt and pepper to taste.

2. Put salad mix in another bowl; mix with olive oil and vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.

3. Place two slices of bread on each plate. Spread egg salad equally on slices. Top equally with Pickled Onion Salad and Melted Cucumbers. Mound salad mix alongside.

Per serving: 637 cal., 59% (378 cal.) from fat; 21 g protein; 42 g fat (7.8 g sat.); 43 g carbo (6.6 g fiber); 1,105 mg sodium; 441 mg chol.

Pickled Onion Salad. Peel and thinly slice 1 red onion (about 6 oz.; 1 1/2 cups sliced). In a 4-to 5-quart pan over high heat, bring 4 cups water, 1/4 cup white wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon mustard seeds, 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, and 1 teaspoon coriander seeds to a boil. Add onion, stir, and cook for 2 minutes. Pour into a fine strainer, discarding liquid. In a bowl, combine onion and spice seeds with 2 tablespoons lemon juice; salt to taste. Let cool at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally Makes about 1 cup; 4 servings.

Per serving: 33 cal., 27% (9 cal.) from fat; 1.5 g protein; 1 g fat (0 g sat.); 5.4 g carbo (1.2 g fiber); 6.6 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Melted Cucumbers. In a bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced English cucumbers, 1 tablespoon kosher or coarse salt, 2 tablespoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar. With your hands, gently crush cucumbers until limp; let stand at least 10 minutes. Add 3 cups water, mix, and pour into a strainer, pressing gently to remove excess liquid; discard liquid. Makes about 3/4 cup; 4 servings.

Per serving: 9.8 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 0 g fat; 2.2 g carbo (0.6 g fiber); 243 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Local spice route

* The port city of Malacca in Malaysia has faded from its 16th-century spice trade glory. But as I wandered its streets recently with Lucia Cleveland, a modern-day spice hunter (and founder of the company by that name), we came across many seasonings still to be discovered by adventurous cooks, and others--such as tangy tamarind--that are already in Western markets. At lunch that day in the Seri Nyonya Peranakan Restaurant, Florence Tan served shrimp in a very easy, glossy brown sauce based on tamarind. It makes as delectable a dish for this century as for any in the past.

Malaysian Tamarind Shrimp

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 35 minutes

NOTES: Like dates, fresh tamarinds, with their sticky, dense flesh and dry exterior pods, last indefinitely stored at room temperature. You'll find the pods in many supermarkets as well as in Mexican, Asian, and Indian food markets. To use them, pull off and discard the hull; pack the fruit and seeds to measure. Tamarind pulp (with seeds, and often some shell) is sold in solid blocks in the same ethnic markets as the fresh fruit. You'll also find liquid tamarind concentrate from Southeast Asia and Mexico; substitute 1/2 cup concentrate for 1/4 cup pulp. Serve shrimp on hot cooked basmati rice.