Hawaiian ways with fish: Banana leaves, Coconut milk, and pineapple give seafood a touch of the Islands - Recipe

Sunset, April, 2002 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

In Hawaii, fish flaunts a sassy attitude. Local ingredients, colorful presentations, and unique species, such as opakapaka, onaga, and opah, give dishes unmistakable regional identity.

To bring this beguiling Islands style to fish on the mainland, we watched local chefs cook at renowned culinary seminars such as the Mauna Kea Resort's Winter Wine Escape (808/880-3023) and the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival (800/527-2582). They proved that it's deceptively easy to give any fish a little tropical flair.

Of course, Hawaiian anglers reel in fish we don't often see on the mainland. Although some of their unique species can be ordered (check with your local fish market if you're interested), we've built our recipes around types readily available throughout the West. Hawaiian flavors can turn any fish into flamboyant fare.

Pan-steamed Sole with Shrimp and Pork Hash

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: Alan Wong, chef-owner of Alan Wong's Restaurant in Honolulu, demonstrated this richly flavored combination of fish and pork at the Winter Wine Escape. Wang uses moi, a pond-raised, delicate, white-fleshed fish once reserved for Hawaiian royalty; sole, flounder, and tilapia are all good substitutes. Serve with hot cooked rice.

MAKES: 4 servings

8 thin slices (quarter-size) peeled fresh ginger

2 green onions (each 10 in. long)

6 ounces baby bok choy

3/4 to 1 pound boned, skinned sole, flounder, or tilapia fillets

1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth Shrimp and Pork Hash (recipe follows)

4 teaspoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons peanut or salad oil

Fresh cilantro sprigs, rinsed

1. Cut ginger into thin slivers. Rinse green onions and trim and discard ends; cut onions (including tops) into 3-inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into shreds. Rinse bok choy and trim and discard stem ends; cut bok choy diagonally into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

Salt

2. Rinse fish and pat dry. Gut into four equal pieces, 3 to 4 inches square.

3. In a 12-inch frying pan or 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring broth to a simmer. Form Shrimp and Pork Hash into four equal patties about 3 inches wide; set in simmering broth as formed. Cover, adjust heat to maintain simmer, and cook until patties are no longer pink on top, 3 to 4 minutes.

4. With a wide spatula, turn patties over; drape a piece of fish on each. Cover and simmer just until fish is barely opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part and patties are no longer pink in the center (cut both to test), 4 to 5 minutes longer.

5. Meanwhile, in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over high heat, bring 1/4 cup water to a boil; add bok choy, cover, and cook just until bright green and tender-crisp to bite, about 2 minutes. Drain bok choy in a colander. Rinse and dry pan.

6. When fish and hash are done, with spatula, transfer one patty with fish to each of four wide, shallow bowls or rimmed plates. Top portions equally with bok choy and green onions. Drizzle evenly with soy sauce. Spoon hot broth equally around fish.

7. In frying pan, heat oil and ginger over high heat until oil ripples over pan bottom, about 30 seconds. Spoon hot oil and ginger equally over servings. Garnish with cilantro sprigs. Add salt to taste.

Per serving: 300 cal., 45% (135 cal.) from fat; 31 g protein; 15 g fat (3.7 g sat.); 9.5 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 857 mg sodium; 104 mg chol.

Shrimp and Pork Hash

PREP TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Traditionally this mixture is steamed in a shallow dish and eaten with rice.

MAKES: About 1 1/4 cups

Mince 4 ounces peeled, deveined shrimp until it forms a coarse paste. In a bowl, mix shrimp; 4 ounces ground lean pork; 1 large egg white; 2 tablespoons each cornstarch, chopped peeled fresh or canned water chestnuts, and thinly sliced green onion; 1 tablespoon prepared oyster sauce; 1 teaspoon minced garlic; 1/4 teaspoon each Asian (toasted) sesame oil and salt; and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

Per serving: 140 cal., 44% (61 cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 6.8 g fat (2.4 g sat.); 6.8 g carbo (0.6 g fiber); 396 mg sodium; 64 mg chol.

Salmon with Crab and Vegetables in a Foil Packet

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: For the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival, chef Christian Hugo Jorgensen of the Westin Maui framed a party-size salmon fillet with tropical leaves. He used fresh ti leaves, which are readily available in Hawaii and sometimes at mainland florist shops. But frozen banana leaves, sold in Asian markets, are a good substitute; you can also omit the leaves altogether. If assembling through step 4 up to 4 hours before baking, chill packet.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

1 piece (12 by 18 in.) frozen banana leaf (optional; see notes)

1 whole salmon fillet (2 1/2 lb.)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves or 3/4 teaspoon dried thyme

2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano leaves or 3/4 teaspoon dried oregano

6 ounces shelled cooked crab

1/3 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 yellow crookneck squash (8 oz. total)

1 red bell pepper (8 oz.)