No pressure cooker - Restaurants - Clair de Lune; St. Kilian's Cheese Shop

Sunset, Oct, 2002 by Claire Walter

TWO STAR CHEFS IN DENVER THINK SMALL AND SCORE BIG. After becoming the father of twins, Sean Kelly closed his restaurant, Aubergine, took almost a year off, and re-emerged with the smaller but equally divine Clair de Lune. Kelly now cooks for a maximum of 40 diners a night, offering a small but perfectly balanced menu with something for every palate.

Meanwhile, Hugh O'Neill pulled the plug on Hugh's American Bistro and opened St. Kilian's Cheese Shop. Compared to the pressures on a top chef, cheese selling is mild, says O'Neill. "Cheese is so simple. It's peasant food. The biggest pressure is from people who hold up a bottle of wine and ask what cheese to eat with it, like they're afraid to try it unless they get my advice. I tell them, 'Close your eyes and point to a cheese, and then just eat it.' Anyone can become an expert with open curiosity and experimentation." Clair de Lune: 1313 E. Sixth Ave.; (303) 831-1992. St. Kilian's Cheese Shop: 3211 Lowell Blvd.; (303) 477-0374.