Same steak—your house

Sunset, Oct, 2002 by Kate Washington

To take the steakhouse experience home, you need a few essentials: great meat, a hot fire, and some stellar sauces. We provide the recipes, and you can supply the heat. It's the meat that is hardest to come by; the flavorful, dry-aged, prime steak that restaurants offer is just not sold in the average supermarket in the West. (Most butcher-counter meat is choice, a step below prime on the USDA'S grading scale.) That doesn't mean it's unavailable, though. Ask around at specialty butcher stores, or try mail-order services. We especially like Lobel's, a venerable New York butcher that offers a full array of thick, never-frozen prime steaks; next-day shipping is now available to the West. (877) 783-4512 or www.lobels.com

Grilled Steak

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

NOTES: Choose well-marbled cuts such as porterhouse, rib eye, T-bone, tenderloin (filet mignon), or top loin (New York or strip) about 1 inch thick. If meat is thicker--up to 2 inches--use medium heat (you can hold your hand at grill level only 3 to 4 seconds) and allow extra time--up to 20 minutes for a medium-rare 2-inch-thick steak, 25 for medium.

MAKES: 4 servings

4  tender bone-in or boned beef
   steaks (1 to 1 1/2 in. thick and 8 to
   16 oz. each; see notes)

   Salt and pepper

1. If using charcoal briquets, ignite 65 to 75 briquets (about 4 1/2 lb.) on the firegrate; open dampers. When coals are dotted with ash, in 15 to 20 minutes, spread into an even, solid layer and allow to burn down until they are hot (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds), 5 to 10 minutes.

If using a gas barbecue, turn all burners to high and close lid for at least 10 minutes, then adjust to desired heat.

2. Trim and discard excess fat from steaks (dripping fat can cause flare-ups). Rinse steaks and pat dry. Sprinkle lightly all over with salt and pepper.

3. Lay steaks on grill 4 to 6 inches above heat; close lid on gas barbecue. Cook until done to your liking, 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare (cut to test; see notes), turning once with a wide spatula or tongs halfway through cooking. Transfer to a board or platter and let rest about 5 minutes before serving.

Per 8-ounce steak (uncooked): 387 cal., 65% (252 cal.) from fat; 31 g protein; 28 g fat (11 g sat.); 0 g carbo (0 g fiber); 77 mg sodium; 105 mg chol.

Balboa "J-1" Sauce

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 1/4 hours

NOTES: This twist on the classic A-1 sauce comes from executive chef Joni Fey Hill at Balboa Restaurant & Lounge, who notes that it is much tangier than the usual steak sauce. Look for tamarind concentrate in Indian markets and specialty food stores; if you cannot find it, substitute 1 teaspoon molasses and 1 tablespoon lime juice.

MAKES: About 3 cups

In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine 1 3/4 cups ketchup, 1 1/2 cups orange juice, 3/4 cup raisins, 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar, 1/4 cup Worcestershire, 3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger, 2 tablespoons minced garlic, 1 tablespoon onion powder, 1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate (see notes), and 2 teaspoons Asian red chili sauce (such as Sriracha). Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, then reduce heat and barely simmer (a few bubbles breaking on surface), stirring occasionally, until sauce is thick, glossy, and dark brown, about 2 hours. In a blender or with a handheld blender, pulse until almost smooth. If sauce is too thick, thin with a little more orange juice. Let cool; serve or chill airtight up to 1 month.

Per 1/4 cup: 109 cal., 1.7% (1.8 cal.) from fat; 1.6 g protein; 0.2 g fat (0 g sat.); 27 g carbo (1.2 g fiber); 653 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Acme Bearnaise Sauce

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: The egg yolks in this sauce are not fully cooked; if you are concerned about egg safety, use yolks from eggs pasteurized in the shell (available at some grocery stores). It's crucial to whisk constantly to create a stable emulsion in this sauce. If it curdles or breaks, stop adding butter and whisk vigorously.

MAKES: About 1 1/2 cups

  6  sprigs fresh tarragon, rinsed
1/2  cup dry white wine
1/2  cup white wine vinegar
1/2  cup chopped shallots
  2  teaspoons cracked black
     peppercorns
3/4  cup (3/8 lb.) butter
  3  large egg yolks (see notes)
     About 1/8 teaspoon hot sauce
     Salt

1. Chop enough tarragon leaves to measure 1 tablespoon. In a 2- to 3-quart pan over medium-high heat, bring white wine, vinegar, shallots, peppercorns, and remaining tarragon sprigs to a boil. Cook, stirring often, until liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup, about 10 minutes. Pour through a fine strainer into a bowl, pressing on solids to extract liquid (discard solids).

2. Meanwhile, in a 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan over low heat, melt all but 2 tablespoons butter: keep warm. In a nonreactive bowl, with a whisk or handheld mixer on high speed, vigorously whisk or beat egg yolks until pale yellow and thick, about 5 minutes by hand. Add 3 tablespoons white-wine mixture; whisk or beat to combine. Add remaining 2 tablespoons solid butter. Nest bowl over a 3- to 4-quart pan of barely simmering water (bottom of bowl shouldn't touch water). Whisk vigorously or beat until butter has melted and mixture has emulsified and thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from over water.