A taste of Russia: throw an easy appetizer party with zakuski - Food & Entertaining

Sunset, April, 2003 by Kate Washington

Zakuski--Russian appetizers--got their start as just a little something to nibble with vodka. Even though the word means "little bites," zakuski evolved into a lavish spread of hors d'oeuvres. The Old World tradition makes a perfectly modern appetizer party or a casual buffet dinner. Infusing vodkas with aromatics and spices gives cocktail hour an easy new twist (see "Fresh Infusion," below). And Russia's bright spring flavors, such as fresh herbs, sweet beets, and delicate salmon, banish any stereotypes of grim Moscow markets full of cabbage.

A zakuski party can be a flexible mix of homemade and purchased dishes, depending on how much time you want to spend (see "The Strategy," page 178). There are excellent resources in Russian neighborhoods throughout the West, especially in such cities as Seattle, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. The growing enclaves in these cities are renewing the West's long history of Russian settlement from Alaska south down the Pacific coast. Now is the perfect time to celebrate spring with a little bite, a glass of vodka, and a toast with friends.

Pickled Spring Onions

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: Spring onions are freshly dug, small-bulbed onions with green stems still attached. They make for tender, mild pickled onions. Look for them in good produce markets or at farmers' markets. If they are unavailable, use pearl onions. You can make the onions up to 2 days ahead; cool, cover, and chill with liquid. Strain and bring to room temperature before serving.

MAKES: 10 to 12 servings as part of an appetizer menu

1 1/2 cups distilled white vinegar
    1 tablespoon kosher salt
    1 tablespoon sugar
    8 whole doves
    1 teaspoon hot chili flakes
    1 dried bay leaf
   12 ounces spring or pearl onions (about 30,
      1 to 1 1/2 in. wide; trim any greens before
      weighing), rinsed (see notes)

1. In a 1 1/2 to 2-quart pan over medium heat, combine vinegar, salt, sugar, cloves, chili flakes, bay leaf, and 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, peel onions and pull off any thin membrane under peel. Trim root ends.

3. Add onions to vinegar mixture and simmer, stirring occasionally, until just tender when pierced, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a serving bowl; discard liquid.

Per serving: 12 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 0 g fat; 3.1 g carbo (0 g fiber); 164 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Caviar Tartlets

PREP TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: To make these easy, stylish appetizers, use domestic red, black, or golden caviar or fish roe, or some of each, for visual contrast. Crisp fib pastry shells, about 1 inch in diameter, are available in well-stocked supermarkets.

MAKES: 45 tartlets

  About 8 ounces sour cream
3 packages (2.1 oz. each) frozen small
  filo pastry shells, thawed (see notes)
  About 4 ounces caviar or other fish roe
  (see notes)
  Fresh chervil leaves or small sprigs
  fresh dill (optional), rinsed

Spoon about 1/2 teaspoon sour cream into each fib shell, then 1/2 to 1 teaspoon caviar. If desired, garnish each tartlet with a leaf of chervil or a small sprig of dill.

Per tartlet: 35 cal., 57% (20 cat.) from fat; 1.1 g protein; 2.2 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 2.8 g carbo (0 g fiber); 64 mg sodium; 17 mg chol.

Salmon-Herb Turnovers

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 11/2 hours

NOTES: These pastries are an appetizer-size take on the classic Russian kulebiaka, an elaborate savory pie with a filling of salmon or sturgeon and rice. The original is made with yeast dough, but purchased puff pastry is an easy shortcut. You can make the filling (steps 1 through 3) for this streamlined version up to 3 days ahead; cover and chill.

MAKES: 27 pastries; 10 to 12 servings

  1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth
1/2 cup basmati rice
  2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup minced onion
1/2 cup finely chopped mushrooms
    (common, exotic, or a mixture)
3/4 cup dry white wine
  8 ounces boned, skinned salmon fillet,
    rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 1-inch
    chunks
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper
  2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs
    such as chervil, chives, dill, parsley, or
    tarragon
  3 sheets (each 9 in. square) thawed frozen
    puff pastry (1 1/2 packages, 17.3 oz. each)
  1 large egg, beaten to blend with
    1 tablespoon water

1. In a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan, bring chicken broth and rice to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until rice is tender to bite, about 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a 2- to 3-quart pan over medium heat, melt butter. Add onion and mushrooms and stir often until onion is soft and liquid has evaporated, 7 to 8 minutes. Add wine, increase heat, and bring to a boil; add salmon chunks and reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until salmon is broken into flakes and most of the liquid has evaporated, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in rice, salt, pepper, and herbs.

3. Cut each puff pastry sheet into nine 3-inch squares. On a lightly floured work surface, with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll each square once in each direction to flatten and stretch to approximately 4 inches. Place 1 tablespoon filling in the middle of each square. Brush edges lightly with egg mixture and fold diagonally over filling to make triangles; pinch edges to seal. Arrange pastries 1/2 inch apart on two cooking parchment-lined 12- by 15inch baking sheets. Lightly brush the top of each pastry with egg mixture.