Harvest tour in Sonoma: discover fresh, regional delights along two autumn backroad drives - Travel

Sunset, Oct, 2003 by Lisa Taggart

Sonoma County shimmers this month with fields full of red and gold grapevines and fat orange pumpkins. This is a glorious time to get out and appreciate the region's rich harvest. Knowing that the food you're savoring was organically grown makes it taste even better.

Sonoma's quiet backroads lead to a variety of organic and low-impact farms. Many are certified organic: They meet specific federal standards and are inspected at least once a year to guarantee that organic practices are being followed. Some farms have not been certified organic, but they practice low-impact natural farming methods (often described as sustainable), which include crop rotation and the use of nonchemical fertilizers and natured insect controls.

Although Ted Bucklin's 700-acre Oak Hill Farm is not certified organic, he calls it a "no harm" farm: He doesn't use any chemicals, and he measures the sustainability of every action. Bucklin says working that way just feels right. "The best thing is, you don't have to question it. "There's no doubt that it's a good thing. I like that."

One benefit of buying from a producer is knowing how a product was grown. For more information on organic standards, visit www.ams.usda. gov/nop, the website of the USDA's National Organic Program.

DRIVE 1: Valley of the Moon

This 40-mile route traces the length of the Valley of the Moon (Sonoma Valley) and then heads west to Petaluma.

Just off Sonoma Plaza, (1) Vella Cheese Co. (315 Second St. E., Sonoma; 707/938-3232) offers a selection of cheeses made on-site from local hormone-free milk. Choices include cheddar, dry jack, and mezzo secco.

Down the street, you can help your self to produce at the (2) Patch (280 Second, just past the bike path), a tiny self-serve farm offering organic lettuce, carrots, and squash, with payment usually by honor system.

Drive west to (3) Artisan Bakers (750 W. Napa St.; 707/939-1765), where the multigrain loaves are made with organic flour and you can watch pastries being rolled and cut.

Take State 12 north for 7 pretty miles to (4) Red Barn Store at Oak Hill Farm (15101 State 12, Glen Ellen; 707/ 996-6643). Originally the entire 700-acre property was a flower farm, but it now includes a wide range of organically grown produce, from heirloom tomatoes to herbs and unusual greens--all sold in a classic red barn.

In the town of Glen Ellen is (5) Benziger Family Winery (1883 London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen; 888/490-2739). This family-owned operation has sprawling grounds with nice picnic areas. Wines here are grown "biodynamically," but are not labeled organic.

Just south of Glen Ellen's center, you'll find the (6) Olive Press (14301 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen; 707/939-8900). Dip bread in samples of oils pressed from different olive varieties here, and try the company's best-seller, the certified organic extra-virgin oil made onsite. You can also view the Pieralisi olive press used to create the oil.

Continue sooth on Arnold Drive, then head west on State 116, passing rolling gold hills veined with green live oaks. Go north on U.S. 101 and take the East Washington Street exit to Petaluma.

If you're doing the tour on a Saturday afternoon, take a left on East Washington and another left on Petaluma Boulevard, then follow it to downtown Petaluma's Walnut Park and the (7) Petaluma Farmers Market (2-5 Sat through Oct 25; Petaluma Blvd. S. at D St.; 707/762-0344), where local fruits, vegetables, and flowers gleam in overflowing displays of fall bounty.

Continue west across town via Washington Street and Bodega Avenue to reach (8) Andersen Organic Vegetable Stand & Pumpkin Patch (4588 Bodega Ave., Petaluma; 707/763-3119). Here you'll find a rich harvest of organic greens, veggies, and U-pick pumpkins.

DRIVE 2: Near Santa Rosa

This 80-mile loop circles Santa Rosa and grazes the Russian River before returning via Sebastopol.

Start in Cotati, near Sonoma State University at (9) Grossi Farms (6652 Petaluma Hill Rd., Santa Rosa; 707/664-1602), which sells organic corn, tomatoes, lettuce, and pumpkins.

Nearby on Petaluma Hill Road, you might see a few flower stands too. Go north and turn onto Crane Canyon Road (which becomes Grange Rd.) to head into the hills. Here, the route is shaded by oaks, bay, and eucalyptus and is dotted with ranchettes.

On Bennett Valley Road is (10) Matanzas Creek Winery (6097 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa; 800/590-6464), where you can walk in the organic lavender garden and buy aromatherapy products such as potpourri. You can also taste some nice nonorganic wine here.

Head north to Farmers Lane and Brush Greek and Riebli Roads. The route winds and climbs as the road narrows, dropping into some small steep canyons. The terrain flattens out and the fields are full of ropy, mature grapevines as you hit the Russian River Valley. Redwoods edge the road, casting cool pools of shade.

Martinelli Road reveals a hidden valley of grapevines. Alter passing through Forestville, you'll discover (11) Foxglove Farm (5280 Gravenstein Hwy., Sebastopol; 707/887-2759), with a wealth of organic autumn tomatoes, herbs, and apples.