Taos harvest drive: sample New Mexico's autumn bounty - Travel

Sunset, Oct, 2003 by Sharon Niederman

Loaded with baskets of tree ripened red and gold apples, plums, pears, and other produce, northern New Mexico's farm stands are at their autumn best this month. Stationed along the 75 miles of road between Santa Fe and Taos, most stands are right on the highway and--often brightly bedecked with crimson chili ristras--beckon passing motorists to stop. Pick the right stands and you can easily spend an afternoon sampling the glories of the harvest season.

The first stop is on U.S. 84/285 in Pojoaque Pueblo, about 8 miles north of Santa Fe, at Martinez Chiles (closed Tue; at intersection of State 503; 505/753-9431). A roadside landmark, its canvas canopy shades tables heaped with blue cornmeal, apples, dried pozole, and pumpkins. Plump bags of pure dried red chilies, both Hatch and Chimayo, tempt buyers to stock up for the winter.

As you follow U.S. 84 north to Espanola, the aroma of roasting green chilies wafts through stalls packed with fresh local squash, apples, potatoes, dried beans, honey, and sweet pinion brittle at Arlo's Produce (511 S. Riverside Dr.; 505/852 2384). Out-of-state buyers drive here to get their chili fix, selecting fat burlap sacks of peppers to go into the roaster. The extra hot ones sell out fast.

Alongside State 68 in the town of Velarde, you'll find the 80-year-old Fruit Basket (15 miles northeast of Arlo's; 505/852-2510), owned by the Velarde family, which traces its roots in the area to 1598. The Velardes harvest the bounty, of 7,000 fruit trees and provide visitors with recipes and icy cold fresh-pressed apple cider.

Another 8 miles north is Sopyn's Fruit Stand (505/579-4223), on State 68 in Rinconada. Proprietor Anna Sopyn's handwoven dried-flower wreaths complement the cornucopia of produce that she sells.

If all this rood shopping makes you hungry for a meal, continue into Taos for another seasonal treat: bratwurst boiled in green-chili beer then braised in sauerkraut at Eske's Brew Pub & Eatery (106 Des Georges Lane; 505/758-1517). Unless, that is, you've snacked too much at the fruit stands. Then just go for the green-chili beer.

Farm-stand trail

Farm stands in the area are open most days during harvest season (call before heading out).

FYI: For information on other activities along the route or for dining and lodging, contact the Taos County Chamber of Commerce (www.taoschamber.com or 505/758-3873).