Indian market treasures: how to shop for and cook this flavorful cuisine

Sunset, Oct, 2003 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Food lovers in the West are lucky. We have access to an array of flavors imported by a myriad of people from other places who've re-established their cooking here. Most recently, a large--and growing--number of Asian Indians have opened new restaurants and groceries in neighborhoods from Los Angeles to Vancouver, B.C. The markets range from tiny stores crammed with mysterious-looking packaged goods to spacious, modern supermarkets with beautiful flesh produce and dell foods. All offer fascinating discoveries.

I asked two expert Indian cooks from California--Hema AlurKundargi of Cupertino and Laxmi Hiremath of San Ramon--to guide me through two stores near my Bay Area home, point out some of their favorite products, and show me what to do with them. Our shopping trips yielded both interesting ready-to-eat snacks and great ingredients for surprisingly simple everyday dishes (see our guide on page 92). For an intriguing Indian sampler party, combine several of our recipes with ready-to-eat foods. Since both Alur-Kundargi and Hiremath have lived in the West for many years, they also had plenty of suggestions for supermarket substitutes for some of the authentic ingredients. You can pull off a party, and get a taste of their country, even if you don't have an lndian market nearby.

Papaya-Kiwi Chaat
with Pistachios

PREP TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: Instead of the chaat masala Hiremath
sprinkles over this salad, you can use ground
toasted cumin seeds: stir 1 teaspoon seeds in
a frying pan over medium heat until they begin
to brown, about 1 minute, then finely grind
with a mortar and pestle or whirl in a blender.
You can complete step 1 up to 3 hours ahead;
cover and chill.

MAKES: 8 servings

2 1/2 cups diced (3/4 in.) peeled firm-ripe
  papaya (about 14 oz.)
2 1/2 cups diced (3/4 in.) peeled firm-ripe
  kiwi (about 16 oz.)
1/2 cup finely chopped red onion
2 fresh red or green jalapeno chilies
  (1 1/2 oz. total), rinsed, stemmed, and
  thinly slivered or minced
3 tablespoons finely chopped
  fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/3 cup shelled roasted, salted
  pistachios
1 teaspoon chaat masela (or
  freshly ground toasted cumin;
  see notes)
  Salt (optional)
1/3 cup sev (optional; see "Discoveries
  and Deals," page 92)

1. In a wide serving bowl, mix papaya, kiwi,
onion, chilies, and mint,

2. Gently stir in orange juice, lime juice, and
nuts, Sprinkle with chaat masala (if using
cumin, add salt to taste) and sev, if desired.

Per serving: 101 cal., 26% (26 cal.) from fat; 2.4 g
protein; 2.9 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 19 g carbo (2.8 g fiber);
30 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Potato-Chutney Crisps
(Sev-puri)

PREP AND COOK TIME; About 25 minutes

NOTES: Sweat-and-sour and spicy hot chutney
over potatoes on a crisp base makes an
intriguing appetizer. A sprinkling of sev--fried
needlelike strands of spicy garbanzo batter-adds
crunchy texture. The traditional base is
a crackerlike fried bread, but Alur-Kundargi
prefers crisp sesame crackers or tortilla chips.
You can complete step 1 up to 1 hour before
serving; let stand at room temperature.

MAKES: 3 dozen appetizers; 10 servings

3 round or triangular tortilla
  chips (flat ones are best) or thin
  sesame crackers (11/2 to 2 in. wide)
3/4 cup chopped cooked potato
1/3 cup minced red onion
6 tablespoons spicy yogurt
  (recipe follows)
6 tablespoons tamarind-date chutney
  (or 1/4 sup spiced apple butter mixed
  with 2 tablespoons lime juice and
1/8 teaspoon each cayenne and salt)
3 tablespoons green chutney
  (recipe follows)
3/4 cup sev (optional; see notes)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Arrange chips in a single layer on platters.
Mound potato, then onion, equally on chips.

2. Top each chip with about 1/2 teaspoon
each spicy yogurt and tamarind date chutney,
1/4 teaspoon green chutney, 1 teaspoon sev,
and 1/4 teaspoon cilantro.

Per serving: 70 cal., 27% (19 cal.) from fat; 1.3 g
protein; 2.1 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 12 g carbo (0.8 g fiber):
19B mg sodium; 0.2 mg chol.

Spicy yogurt. In a bowl, mix 6 table spoons plain nonfat yogurt, and 1/4 teaspoon each ground cumin, sugar, and salt. Makes about 6 tablespoons,

Green chutney. In a blender, combine 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro; 2 fresh jalapeno chilies (1 oz. total), rinsed, stemmed, and sliced; I tablespoon unsweetened shredded dried coconut; 1 tablespoon lime juice; and 1/2 teaspoon each sugar and salt. Whirl until smooth, adding just enough water (2 to 4 tablespoons) to facilitate blending. Cover and chill up to 1 day. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Toasted or Fried
Pappadums

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 minute

NOTES: You can buy pappadums--dried
lentil wafers--plain or seasoned; sometimes
they are oven sold in regular supermarkets.
Stored airtight, they keep almost indefinitely,
ready to use for instant appetizers. When
toasted or fried, they become crisp, like
potato chips; you can store the cooked
wafers airtight Lip to 1 week,

MAKES: Allow 1 per serving

To toast: Lay pappadum wafers (see notes)
slightly apart on a baking sheet. Broil 4 to 6
inches from heat until they begin to blister or
Buckle, 20 to 25 seconds (watch closely
they scorch easily). Turn wafers over and broil
again until surface is blistered, 8 to 12 sec
ends longer. Transfer toasted wafers to a rack.

To fry: Pour about 1 inch of vegetable oil into
a 10 to 12-inch flying pan over medium-high
heat; when oil reaches 375[degrees] on a thermometer,
adjust heat to maintain temperature. Lay
1 pappadum wafer in hot oil; when it puffs up
(almost instantly), turn it over, push other side
into oil, and cook until puffed and crisp
(it doesn't need to brown), 2 to 3 seconds.
Transfer to paper towels to drain.

Serve, or cool and wrap airtight.

Per toasted wafer: 27 cal., 6.7% (1.8 cal.) from fat;
2 g protein; 0.2 g fat (0 g sat.); 4.7 g carbo (1 g fiber);
260 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Spicy Potatoes

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes,
plus 1 1/2 hours to marinate

NOTES: Start preparing these sweet hot
garlicky potatoes from Alur-Kundargi (through
step 2) about 2 hours ahead so they can
marinate in the sauce. Scoop the potatoes
into the chapatis or whole wheat tortillas to
eat like burritos; for appetizer portions, cut
the bread into wedges and use them to scoop
up the potatoes,

MAKES: 8 servings

2 pounds thin-skinned potatoes
1/4 cup minced garlic
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon pav-bhaji masala,
  purchased or homemade
  (recipe follows)
  Salt
  Indian red chili powder or cayenne
  Chopped fresh cilantro
8 chapatis or whole-wheat tortillas
  (7 in.)

1. Peel potatoes and cut into 3/4-inch chunks.
In a 3 to 4-quart pan over high heat, bring
1 quart water and the potatoes to a boil. Reduce
heat, cover, and simmer until potatoes
are almost tender when pierced, 7 to 10 minutes.
Drain and return to pan.

2. Meanwhile, in a 6 to 8 inch frying pan over
medium heat, stir garlic in oil until it begins to
turn golden, about 2 minutes. Add ketchup,
pav-bhaji masala, and salt and chili powder to
taste. Add the seasoned ketchup to palatoes
and mix to coat. Cover and let stand about
1 1/2 hours.

3. Pour potatoes into a 10- by 15-inch non
stick baking pan. Bake in a 375[degrees] regular or
convection oven, stirring occasionally, until
potatoes are tender when pierced, 10 to 15
minutes. Scrape into a bowl and sprinkle with
cilantro. Serve with chapatis (see notes).

Per serving: 292 cal., 19% (56 cal.) from fat; 6,9 g
protein; 6.2 g fat (1 g sat.); 54 g carbo (4.5 g fiber);
744 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.