East-West salad: a cool Western classic takes on warm flavors from the Middle East - Tastes of the West

Sunset, April, 2004 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Oranges and onions have a long history together here--both flourish in the West. A salad made up of the pair dates back to at least the early 1930s in the pages of Sunset. But it wasn't born here. These ingredients share a more exotic heritage in Middle Eastern and North African countries, where pungent black olives also abound.

There, a salad made up of all three is seasoned with warm, fragrant spices like cumin and cool, fresh herbs such as mint and cilantro. The contrast of flavors--juicy sweetness from the fruit, body and bite from the onion, and salty richness from the cured olives--makes this salad a standout back home in the West.

Spiced Orange Salad

PREP TIME: 15 to 20 minutes

MAKES: 6 servings

NOTES: Juice-orange slices hold together better than those from navel oranges. If you are using a hot onion, put slices in a bowl and mix with 4 cups cold water, 2 table-spoons sugar, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and 1 tablespoon salt; gently squeeze the slices, separating the rings. Let stand 10 minutes, then drain, rinse, and drain again.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

  6 oranges (about 2 1/2 in. wide, 2 1/2 lb. total; see notes)
  4 to 6 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  1 tablespoon olive oil
  1 teaspoon sugar
    Spice blend (recipe follows)
  1 mild red onion (6 oz.), peeled and sliced (see notes)
1/2 cup finely slivered fresh mint leaves
  2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
    Salt
    About 1/2 cup black olives such as Nicoise or kalamata
    Fresh mint leaves and fresh cilantro leaves, rinsed

1. With a small, sharp knife, cut peel and white membrane from oranges. Slice the oranges crosswise 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick and discard seeds.

2. In a small bowl, mix 4 tablespoons vinegar with olive oil and sugar. Stir in the spice blend.

3. In a wide, shallow bowl, gently mix orange slices, onions, slivered mint, and chopped cilantro. Pour in dressing and mix gently. Taste and add salt and more vinegar if desired.

4. Scatter olives, mint leaves, and cilantro leaves over the top. Spoon salad and dressing onto plates.

Per serving: 138 cal., 37% (51 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 5.7 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 22 g carbo (4.6 g fiber); 370 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Spice blend. Combine 3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds or ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon paprika or mild ground dried chili, 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns or 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves, 1/4 teaspoon curry powder, and 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon; if using whole spices, whirl mixture in a grinder or small food processor to a powder.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES CARRIER