Life on the edge: in Tofino, where the Pacific meets Vancouver Island, there's drama to spare

Sunset, April, 2004 by Kate Chynoweth

Per serving: 395 cal., 64% (252 cal.) from fat; 9.1 g protein; 28 g fat (19 g sat.); 19 g carbo (0.7 g fiber); 283 mg sodium; 15 mg chol.--SARA SCHNEIDER

To Tofino

Tofino is on Vancouver Island, accessed from the city of Vancouver, B.C., only by boat, via BC Ferries (www.bcferries.bc.ca or 250/386-3431), and by plane. From Victoria and elsewhere on Vancouver Island, Tofino is accessible via Hwy. 4 and by plane.

High temperatures in April are about 50[degrees] and lows are around 40[degrees]; bring rain gear. For more information, contact the Tofino Visitor Centre (www.tofinobc.org or 250/725-3414). Prices listed below are in U.S. dollars.

Activities

Long Beach Nature Tour Co. Guided hikes with naturalist Bill McIntyre. From about $136. www.oceansedge.bc.ca or 250/726-7099.

The Lounge Collection. Contemporary art gallery and boutique. 601 Campbell St.; 250/725-3334.

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve of Canada. Pristine beaches and temperate coastal rain forest. About $7.60 per vehicle (additional fee for camping). Off Hwy. 4; www.pc.gc.ca/pacific rim or 250/726-7721.

Suri Sister Surf School. Surf camps, clinics, and daily lessons on Long Beach, within Pacific Rim National Park. From about $57 per lesson. www.surfsister.com, 877/724-7873, or 250/725-4456.

Tofino Botanicol Gardens. Includes large native-plant collection and a cafe. About $7.60. 1084 Pacific Rim Hwy.; www.tofinobotanicalgardens.com or 250/725-1220.

Wild Pacific Troil. A 25-minute drive south of Tofino in Ucluelet; don't miss the Amphitrite Lighthouse loop. www.wildpacifictrail.com

Dining

Cafe Pampiona. With a menu that changes daily, it's in the midst of the Tofino Botanical Gardens. $$$. 1084 Pacific Rim Hwy.; www.cafepamplona.com or 250/725-1237.

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Long Beach Lodge Resort. Nosh on steamed mussels and clams in the Great Room, or dine on sophisticated seafood dishes in the formal dining room. $$$. 1441 Pacific Rim Hwy.; www.longbeachlodgeresort.com, 877/844-7873, or 250/725-2442.

The Pointe Restaurant. This legendary restaurant inside the Wickaninnish Inn offers ocean views and haute cuisine. $$$$ (reservations required). 500 Osprey Lane at Chesterman Beach; www.wickinn.com, 800/333-4604, or 250/725-3100.

RainCoast Cafe. $$; dinner daily. 101-120 Fourth St.; 250/725-2215.

Sobo. New York-trained chef Lisa Ahier serves her signature crispy fish tacos from a purple truck. $; closed Tue. 1184 Pacific Rim Hwy., behind Beaches Grocery; 250/725-2341.

Lodging

Long Beach Lodge Resort. Tofino's newest luxury resort overlooks Cox Bay. From about $143. (See "Dining.")

Middle Beach Lodge. Rustic comfort in two oceanfront lodges. From about $76. 400 MacKenzie Beach Rd.; www.middlebeach.com or 250/725-2900.

Wickaninnish Inn. The restaurant and spa are highlights at this resort on the beach. From about $182. (See Pointe Restaurant under "Dining.")

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROBERT LEON