Valley highs: fresh air and golden hills in Washington's Methow Valley

Sunset, Oct, 2004 by Amy Wolf

Splurge on dinner. The Dining Room at Sun Mountain Lodge ($$$$; see "Mountain Highs," above) offers fancy meals with a stunning view of the rounded hills of the southern Pasayten Wilderness, with the Methow River running through it. A less expensive but equally appealing option is the lodge's more casual Wolf Creek Bar and Grill ($$), which has the same unbeatable view.

DAY 3 Sunday

Wind down in tiny Mazama, gateway to some of the valley's best hikes. The town consists of little more than a road, an inn, and the Mazama Store (50 Lost River Rd.; 509/996-2855), known here as the "center of the universe." Get picnic treats before you hit the trails.

Mirroring lakes. The 7-mile Maple Pass Loop to Lake Ann and Rainy Lake is unbelievably beautiful in fall, when the lakes reflect the surrounding golden leaves. For an easier route, or if the Rainy Lake Trail is snow-covered, walk the paved, wheelchair-accessible, 1-mile trail to the waterfall at Rainy Lake. From Mazama, drive about 25 miles west on State 20 to the south parking lot at Rainy Pass. (Bring your Northwest Recreation Pass for either trailhead.)

A fireside meal. For one last dinner, Mazama's Freestone Inn & Cabins ($$$; reservations suggested; 31 Early Winters Dr.; www.freestoneinn.com or 800/639-3809) is a great choice. Have a glass of Washington wine by the massive river-rock fireplace, or stake out an Adirondack chair by the inn's lake while you wait for your table. As darkness falls over the Cascades, you just might decide you don't really need to get home tonight. After all, there are many hikes still to be explored, and chances are, there's plenty of room at the inn.

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RELATED ARTICLE: Where to sleep

Freestone Inn & Cabins. This 120-acre ranch bordering the Cascades is full of hand-hewn logs and river rocks. From $165 through Oct 9, from $105 Oct 10-Dec 18. Off State 20 in Mazama; www.freestoneinn.com or 800/639-3809.

Methow Valley Inn. Lush gardens surround this pretty inn with seven antique-filled rooms. From $89, including hearty breakfast. 234 Second Ave. E., Twisp; www.methowvalleyinn.com or 509/997-2253.

River's Edge Resort. One-, two-, and three-bedroom cabins and chalets are right on the Chewuch River. From $125. 115 Riverside Ave., Winthrop; www.riversedge winthrop.com, 800/937-6621, or 509/996-8000.

Sun Mountain Lodge. Full-service resort with 112 guest rooms, an activities center, hiking trails, a stable, two swimming pools, and two hot tubs. From $170 through Oct 16, from $140 Oct 17-Dec 18. 604 Patterson Lake Rd., Winthrop; www.sunmountainlodge.com or 800/572-0493.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID SAMUEL ROBBINS