L.A.'s bright lights: Los Angeles is on the world's cultural itinerary like never before

Sunset, Oct, 2004 by Matthew Jaffe

Pig'n Whistle. Old and new Hollywood converge at this beautifully restored spot that becomes a dance club after hours. $$. 6714 Hollywood Blvd.; 323/463-0000.

White Lotus. Fine Euro-Asian cuisine in a most happening setting. $$$. Closed Sun-Mon. 1743 N. Cahuenga; 323/463-0060.

Lodging

Renaissance Hollywood Hotel. Part of the Hollywood Highland center. 637 rooms from $179. 1755 N. Highland; www.renaissancehollywood.com or 800/468-3571.

Roosevelt Hotel. Packed with history and featuring a vintage Hollywood lobby, the Roosevelt has had major upgrades in recent years. 105 rooms from $199. 7000 Hollywood Blvd.; www.hollywoodroosevelt.com or 800/950-7667.

Cool tours

Architecture Tours L.A. Personalized driving tours of landmark city buildings in either a vintage Cadillac or small van. From $65. www.architecturetoursla.com or 323/464-7868.

Los Angeles Conservancy Tours. The city's leading preservation organization offers weekly and monthly tours, including walking tours of the Broadway Theatre District (you can see the Los Angeles Theatre in June). $10. www.laconservancy.org or 213/623-2489.

Neon Cruises. From May through October 23, the Museum of Neon Art conducts weekly three-hour tours to see the city's rich storehouse of neon. $45. www.neonmona.org or 213/489-9918.

Red Line Tours. Thorough walking tours of Hollywood, historic downtown, and contemporary downtown. $20. www.redlinetours.com or 323/402-1074.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID ZAITZ