The grapes of joy: this family's vintages prove hard work pays off

Sunset, Oct, 2004

In 1968, 16-year-old Reynaldo Robledo left Michoacan, Mexico, came to Calistoga, and got a job pruning for Christian Brothers Winery for $1.10 an hour, $1.50 on Sundays. In October 2003, with the help of his wife and nine children, he opened Robledo Family Winery, the first Mexican migrant-owned winery in California.

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"When I came here [in 1968], the grapes were just starting to wake up," he says. "Not many people had experience." Including Reynaldo. But his pruning methods proved to be effective and quickly made him and his crew indispensable. He eventually bought a 12-acre plot of land in the Carneros region and began cultivating his own land while holding down a full-time job as a vineyard manager. "I worked at night, pounding stakes in my spare time, at 2 a.m., 4 a.m.," he says. "After school the family would help me."

Today all nine children work at the winery--Reynaldo's son-in-law is the winemaker--and his wife, Maria, hopes to start offering cooking demonstrations, pairing traditional Mexican dishes with Robledo wines. The winery will celebrate its first anniversary October 23 with a harvest festival ($15) that includes folkloric dancers, mariachi music, and grape stomping.

All six Robledo varietals--particularly the berry-filled Pinot Noir ($25)--would be worth seeking out even if you had no idea of the blood, sweat, and tears behind them. "I'm proud to have my family together," Reynaldo says. "I'm proud that they like to work the same way I do. That's my dream."--A.W.

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Robledo's tasting room is open 10-5 daily ($5 tasting fee; 21901 Bonness Rd., Sonoma; www.robledo familywinery.com or 707/939-6903).