A passion for papayas - recipes

Sunset, May, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Eight ways to love this tropical fruit, from salad to dessert

Remember your first bite of papaya? Its smooth, melting flesh, subtle floral taste, and musky aroma might have seemed seductive - or strange. (Regardless, a squeeze of lime made it more enjoyable.)

Papayas' growing presence in the market is evidence that they've seduced a good share of their audience. Small (1 to 1 1/2 lb.) pear-shaped Solo papayas, primarily from Hawaii, and large (1 1/2 to 7 lb.) football-shaped Meridol (also spelled Maradol) fruit from Mexico dominate the supply in Western markets. Other Meridol sources are Belize, Costa Rica, Brazil, and the Caribbean. As a result, papayas of one variety or another are available here year-round.

Although sweetness and color vary slightly with variety and ripeness (some think Solo has a more intense flavor and Meridol a muskier taste), papayas can be used interchangeably. After harvest, fruit will soften and get juicier, but sugar content will not change.

Buy papayas with some golden color and smooth, unblemished skin. To ripen, store at room temperature until most of the skin turns gold and the flesh gives slightly when gently pressed. Eat, or refrigerate up to several days. Chilling before fruit is ready to eat can stop the ripening process.

Green, or immature, papayas are firm and unripe. Southeast Asians use green papaya as a vegetable, raw or cooked, for its crunchy texture and cool flavor, reminiscent of cucumbers and chayotes. Look for green papayas in Asian food markets. To keep fruit firm, store at cool room temperature (about 55 [degrees]) or refrigerate.

Papaya Gazpacho

PREP TIME: About 35 minutes

NOTES: Up to 8 hours ahead, complete recipe through step 2; cover and chill.

MAKES: 6 servings

2 pounds chilled ripe papayas

1/2 to 1 teaspoon minced seeded fresh habanero chili or 1 to 2 teaspoons minced seeded fresh red Fresno chili

2/3 cup orange juice

3/4 cup vegetable broth

1/2 cup lime juice

1/4 cup minced shallots, rinsed and drained

1/2 pound shelled cooked tiny shrimp (optional)

1/2 cup diced (1/4 in.) peeled, seeded green papaya or cucumber (about 3/4 lb.)

1/2 cup diced (1/2 in.) peeled, pitted firm-ripe avocado

Salt

2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves

1. Peel, seed, and cut enough ripe papaya into 1/2-inch cubes to make 1/2 cup; reserve for garnish. Cut remaining papayas into 1-inch chunks. In a blender or food processor, combine 1-inch papaya chunks, 1/2 teaspoon chili, and orange juice; puree until smooth.

2. Pour puree into a bowl; add broth, lime juice, shallots, and additional chili to taste; mix well.

3. Ladle into wide bowls. To each bowl, add equal portions shrimp, reserved ripe papaya cubes, diced green papaya, and avocado. Add salt to taste and sprinkle with cilantro.

Per serving: 90 cal., 22% (20 cal.) from fat; 1.4 g protein; 2.2 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 18 g carbo (1.4 g fiber); 18 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Green Papaya-Turkey Tumble

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: Serve as a first course or accompany with rice for a main dish. Garnish with green onion slivers.

MAKES: 6 first-course or 3 main-dish servings

1 tablespoon salad oil 1 onion (6 oz.), peeled and chopped 1 pound ground turkey or ground lean pork 1 tablespoon curry powder 1 1/2 cups diced (1/4 in.) peeled, seeded green papaya 3/4 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth 3 tablespoons chutney, chopped 1 teaspoon cornstarch Salt 12 iceberg or butter lettuce leaves (about 3 by 4 in.), rinsed and crisped

1. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over high heat, stir oil, onion, and turkey until meat is browned and crumbly, about 7 minutes.

2. Add curry, powder; stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add papaya, broth, and chutney. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until papaya is tender when pierced, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Mix cornstarch and 2 tablespoons water; stir into pan. Keep stirring until sauce boils, about 1 minute. Add salt to taste. Scrape into a bowl.

4. To eat, spoon turkey mixture into lettuce leaves and roll up.

Per first-course serving: 187 cal., 40% (74 cal.) from fat; 15 g protein; 8.2 g fat (1.8 g sat.); 13 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 102 mg sodium; 55 mg chol.

Spice-dusted Papaya

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Serve as a salad, or as a relish with grilled chicken, fish, or pork.

MAKES: 3 or 4 salad servings

1 to 1 1/2 pounds firm-ripe papayas, peeled and seeded 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/8 teaspoon cayenne 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/8 teaspoon pepper Salt 1 lime, cut in half

1. Cut papayas into 1/4-inch-thick slices and arrange on a platter.

2. In a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over low heat, stir ground cumin, cayenne, ground nutmeg, and pepper until the spices are fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from heat.

3. Sprinkle papaya slices evenly with spice mixture and lightly with salt. Squeeze lime over papayas.

Per serving: 33 cal., 5.5% (1.8 cal.) from fat; 0.5 g protein; 0.2 g fat (0 g sat.); 8.2 g carbo (0.7 g fiber); 2.8 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Papaya-Watercress Salad

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Ellie Stepo of Kailua, Hawaii, uses local fruit to make this colorful salad. If desired, reserve some of the peppery seeds from the papayas to use in the dressing.