A la carte on Valencia - Valencia Street restaurants in San Francisco's Mission District - Brief Article

Sunset, Nov, 2000 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Valencia Street restaurants serve up variety in San Francisco's Mission District

San Francisco may be justifiably renowned for its world-class dining, but in a city where dinner for two can easily blow the average family's weekly grocery budget, the emergence of a modestly priced restaurant row is welcome news.

In the Mission District, south of the Civic Center near Mission Dolores, once-sleepy Valencia Street stirs with new life. With gritty Mission Street a block to the east, this still-evolving neighborhood's relatively low rents have drawn an exciting and eclectic mix of start-up businesses-- especially restaurants.

Walk the short stretch of Valencia between 16th and 23rd streets, look just half a block up or down the intersecting side streets, and you'll find more than 30 eateries--all small. Dining choices range from moderately priced white-tablecloth restaurants to a colorful and varied collection of ethnic, family, and casual diners, where $10 buys a meal. From Spanish tapas to vegetarian red curry to filet mignon, there's something for every taste and budget. We tried them all; our list of favorites follows.

This section of Valencia also boasts good shopping for clothes by talented young designers, retro furniture, books, botanical bath teas, Mexican folk art, and even garden supplies. With limited parking in the area, one strategy is to arrive in the late afternoon, secure a spot in the public lots on 16th or 21st streets between Valencia and Mission, and then get a jump on your holiday shopping before catching an early dinner. Reservations are strongly recommended. Area code is 415.

Firecracker. The real pyrotechnics don't come from the strings of red firecrackers dangling beneath sculpted glass chandeliers but are from the dazzling array of classic and unusual Chinese dishes. Start with Fujian rolls ($6) stuffed with crunchy fresh vegetables, or the signature crispy fried crab rolls ($6.50) with a tangy cucumber-lime dipping sauce. Servings of dishes such as Phoenix and Dragon ($10), a spicy blend of chicken, shrimp, and eggplant in a plum sauce with tomato and tangerine, or perfectly sauteed string beans ($7.75) are generous. Firecracker's biggest bang is the one for your buck. 5:30-10:30 Tue-Sat (until 11 Fri-Sat), 5-10 Sun. 1007 Valencia (at 21st); 642-3470. -Jeff Phillips La Villa Poppi. The casual, homelike atmosphere is the ideal backdrop for chef Greg Sweeting, who personally cooks a multicourse Tuscan dinner, with wine tasting, for all his guests. Choose 3, 4, or 5 courses from a prix fixe menu ($27 to $36). Wines accompany each course and are priced separately at about $6 to $1 2 per full glass; half glasses are available. To skip the wine pairing, go to the restaurant (or make reservations) before 6:30. The only drawback to this cozy setting is the view of street traffic from your table. 6-10 Tue-Sat. 3234 22nd St. (between Valencia and Mission); 642-5044.

Luna Park. Swank but spare, this casual new bistro, with a long redwood bar, has deep red walls and warm, dark interiors. It serves good food at moderate prices. Start with the French classic, moules frites (mussels with french fries; $5.95). Choose among five salads, from Caesar to spinach with currants and feta ($5). "Pot on fire" is braised beef brisket with vegetables ($12.95). Making your own s'mores ($5) is a fun concept but doesn't surpass the original campfire treat. 11:30-2:30 and 5:30-11 Mon-Fri (until 12 En), 11:30-3:30 and 5:30-10:30 Sat-Sun (until 12 Sat). 694 Valencia (at 18th); 553-8584.

Pintxos. Spanish-Basque Pintxos (Basque for "tapas") delivers big, earthy flavors in a rustic, urban setting. Try the small plates, where sweetbreads and wild mushrooms meet up with shrimp in a sharp sherry sauce with garlic ($8.95), or where salty anchovies curl around black olives on layers of roasted red peppers, eggplant, and onion ($5.95). Larger plates include a filet mignon with figs and asparagus, all smoky from the grill, napped with a pungent blue cheese sauce ($17.95). 5:30-10 Sun-Thu, 5:30-10:30 Fri-Sat. 557 Valencia (between 16th and 17th); 565-0207. Sara Schneider Slanted Door. Chef Charles Phan's fanatical attention to texture, taste, and quality ingredients elevates homestyle Vietnamese food to epicurean haiku. Salads such as the grapefruit and jicama ($6.75) and green papaya ($6.50) show off pristinely cut vegetables. Tasting Slanted Door spring rolls ($5.75) dipped in a perfectly balanced peanut sauce makes up for the noise and sometimes erratic service. Slanted Door books fast: If you can't get dinner reservations, try lining up before 5:20. 11:30-3:30 and 5:30-10 Tue-Sun (until 10:30 Fri-Sat). 584 Valencia (at 17th); 861-8032. -- L.L.A. 3Ring. A circus motif decorates this casual, bustling restaurant. Chef Keith Handelsman's dishes reflect a strong provencal French backbone. Start with the saffron and kaffir lime mussels and clams ($6.75). Chicken pot-au-feu ($21 for two, $11 for a half-order) boasts an intensely flavored broth almost sweet with the essence of chicken. The check arrives with a complimentary cone of blue cotton candy, a fitting dessert for dinner at the circus. Menu changes seasonally 5:30-10 Tue-Sun (until 10:30 Fri-Sat), 10 A.M.-2 P.M. Sun. 995 Valencia (at 21st); 821-3210.