Bliss by Monterey Bay - the popularity of cycling in and around Castroville and Marina, California - Brief Article

Sunset, May, 2001 by Lisa Taggart

Famous for artichokes, Castroville and Marina now offer terrific cycling--and a spiffy new beach resort

At first sight of the bristly green globe, there's no clear way to eat an artichoke. Just as, initially, there's no clear link between artichokes and mountain bikes.

But both have Old World roots: The mountain bike is reminiscent of the European cyclocross bike; artichokes were first cultivated in Italy. And both have bloomed on California soil.

The most powerful harmonic convergence of thistle and bicycle occurs along the coast in northern Monterey County. Castroville, 16 miles north of Monterey, calls itself the artichoke capital of the world; this is a reasonable claim, since its fields satisfy three-quarters of the nation's appetite for artichokes. This month, the town celebrates its harvest with the annual Castroville Artichoke Festival, which has been drawing crowds since 1958. (The spiky delicacy had acquired star power 10 years previously, when Marilyn Monroe was named the first artichoke queen.)

This month too, the windswept town of Marina, about 10 miles south of Castroville on the coast, celebrates its natural strengths with the Marina International Festival of the Winds. The three-day event includes kite-flying, hang-gliding, and a bike ride around former military base Fort Ord.

Fort Ord cycling and a duneside resort

Biking at Fort Ord has caught on in the same way growing artichokes did in Castroville decades before. The vast site was opened to the public four years ago, and has 7,200 hilly acres with paved roads, fire roads, and singletrack. As the military finishes cleaning up the land, more open space will be available.

Mountain bikers flock to these trails to practice the tricky downhills for the Mercury Sea Otter Classic, the annual festival held at neighboring raceway Laguna Seca, says Eric Morgan, project manager for the Bureau of Land Management at Ford Ord. The area's steep hills are rich in wildlife, including deer and bobcats. The trails make for great hiking, too.

If the trails wear you out, there's a new resort in Marina. It's the first development on the Monterey County coast in 20 years. The owners of Marina Dunes Resort have made efforts to help restore and protect native plants and animals on the dunes.

Looking for a final connection between artichokes and bikes? Now Castroville and Marina are linked by a new paved bike path. So you can grab a lunch of fried artichokes, pedal south to the beach, and sit on the dunes to watch the waves as you enjoy your picnic. Without a doubt, this is the best way to eat an artichoke.

Travel planner

Marinna is 6 miles north of Monterey along the coast off State 1; Castroville is 16 miles north of Monterey.

For general area information, contact the Marina Chamber of Commerce; (831) 384-9155 or www.marinachamber.com. Area code is 831 unless noted.

Attractions

Castroville Artichoke Festival. Thousands of people attend this 42-year-old event, which includes a parade, live music, and food booths offering a myriad of ways to prepare artichokes. May 19-20. Enter at Preston and Merritt Streets; 633-2465 or www.artichoke-festival.org.

Monterey Bay Coastal Trail. The trail begins in Castroville. Start at Haro St., then continue west on a separate trail that parallels State 1 and State 156. At Nashua Rd., jog south, then continue west on Monte Rd., then southwest on a path that parallels Del Monte Blvd. At Marina, head northwest on Reservation Rd. to Marina State Beach.

Fort Ord Public Lands. Great biking and hiking. Some areas of this former military base are not yet open to the public; follow signs. Trail access off Reservation Rd., State 68, and Barloy Canyon Rd.; 394-8314.

Marina State Beach. A boardwalk has native plant identification cards. The beach is windswept and often empty. Access at west end of Reservation Rd.; 384-7695.

Marina International Festival of the Winds. Food booths, kite-flying, and hang-gliding at Marina State Beach and Glorya Jean Tate Park. The Tour de Fort Ord Bike Ride is on Saturday; there are 25- and 50-mile rides. May 11-13; (877) 973-2233. Registration for the bike ride is $25; 883-4566 or www.redshift.com/[sim] cleahoff/index.html.

Lodging

Marina Dunes Resort. Opened last year, the resort has plush rooms with fireplaces, whirlpool baths, and ocean views, with access to Marina State Beach. Because no cars are allowed in the area surrounding the hotel rooms, guests are given golf carts to drive. From $145. 3295 Dunes Dr., Marina; (877) 944-3863 or www.marinadunes.com.

Dining

A.J. Spurs. Spicy barbecue meats, served with beans and rice. At the Marina Dunes Resort; 883-9479.

Giant Artichoke. Briefly closed before new owners took over last year, this tourist attraction serves artichokes in a variety of ways. 11261 Merritt, Castroville; 633-3501.

Cafe Pronto! Pizzas, pastas, meats, and seafood. Closed Sun. 330 Reservation Rd., Marina; 883-1207.

La Scuola. Italian restaurant with pastas, sandwiches,, seafood, and artichokes, served in the town's first schoolhouse, built in 1869. Closed Sun-Mon. 10700 Merritt, Castroville; 633-3200.