Playing hooky by ferry - ferryboat service in the San Francisco, California, Bay Area - Brief Article

Sunset, May, 2001 by Lisa Taggart

The best--and cheapest--way to explore the waters and islands of San Francisco Bay

There's something delicious about sipping your Monday morning coffee on the deck of a ferryboat, looking up at the underside of the Bay Bridge, skimming through the paper, and knowing that, unlike the commuters on the deck around you, you're not on your way to work.

It's a well-kept commuter secret: Scheduled ferry runs are the best and least expensive way to tour San Francisco Bay, Ferry travelers see the best of the bay--the cityscape of downtown San Francisco, the Oakland--San Francisco Bay Bridge without the traffic, the green slopes of Angel Island, the waterfront mansions of Belvedere. And you can sip wine and have a snack while you take in the scenery.

Five operators ferry more than 5 million commuters and visitors across San Francisco Bay each year. The longest run, at 26 miles, connects Vallejo and San Francisco, with high-speed catamaran boats cruising at up to 35 knots. The shortest is a 1/2-mile ride to Alcatraz Island, which takes only 10 minutes.

You can also connect to three ports in Marin County (Larkspur, Sausalito, and Tiburon) and three in the East Bay (two in Alameda and one in Oakland). You can do the tourist thing and head out to Alcatraz or Angel Island State Park. Or you can be a savvy East Bay or Marin County local and head to Giants games by boat; you dock right at Pacific Bell Park.

Certain ferry runs have their own culture. The late-night Friday Larkspur commute is boisterous. The Angel Island boats are full of mountain bikers. Vallejo commuters have plenty of time to build friendships.

Assemble your own tour of the bay--San Francisco to Angel Island to Tiburon and back, for example, costs around $20. Just be sure to check schedules so you don't miss the boat home.

Navigating San Francisco Bay by ferry

Call to get the most current schedules and information. Most operators offer abbreviated schedules on weekends, and weekend fares can be higher. A good Bay Area information clearinghouse is at www.rransitinfo.org.

Most destinations listed here are on routes from San Francisco--from either Fisherman's Wharf (Pier 41) or the Ferry Building (boats are still docking here, but the building is being remodeled; for updates visit www.sfport.com). Times and fares listed below are for one-way trips unless noted. Parking at San Francisco terminals is limited and expensive; your best bet is to use public transportation. Most other Bay Area terminals provide free or low-cost parking nearby Ferryboats have snack bars and will carry bicycles.

* ALAMEDA. Two operators travel from San Francisco to Alameda, where you can walk along Main St. for shopping or stroll along the waterfront.

Harbor Bay Ferry: From Ferry Building to end of Harbor Bay Parkway in Alameda; no weekend service. 25 minutes; $4.75.

Blue & Gold Fleet: From Fisherman's Wharf to 2990 Main St. in Alameda via the Ferry Building and Oakland; during commute hours, some boats leave from the Ferry Building instead of Fisherman's

Wharf. 45 minutes; $4.75.

* ALCATRAZ ISLAND. Trips run from San Francisco to Alcatraz, where tourists and curious locals can tour buildings of the former prison. Audio tours can be purchased for an additional $3.50. Reservations are required and should be made several days in advance.

Blue & Gold Fleet: From Fisherman's Wharf. 20 minutes round trip; $8.75.

* ANGEL ISLAND. Two operators offer service to Angel Island, where you can hike around the island and view Civil War buildings and the World War II Japanese internment center.

Blue & Gold Fleet: From Fisherman's Wharf to Angel Island. 80 minutes; $10.50 round trip. From Vallejo to Angel Island. Service will begin in July.

Angel Island-Tiburon Ferry: Tiburon to Angel Island. 20 minutes round trip; $5.50.

* LARKSPUR. Daily service is offered from San Francisco to the Larkspur terminal, which is a short walk from Larkspur Landing shops and restaurants. Various buses (Golden Gate Transit: 415/923-2000) are available to connect to towns in Mann County. Late-night Friday boats start this month.

Golden Gate Ferry: From the Ferry Building. 30 to 45 minutes; $2.95 Mon-Fri, $5 Sat-Sun.

* OAKLAND. Ferryboats run from Fisherman's Wharf (with stops at the Ferry Building and Alameda) to Oakland's Jack London Square, where you can walk along the waterfront and browse shops and restaurants. During commute hours some ferries leave from the Ferry Building instead of Fisherman's Wharf.

Blue & Gold Fleet: From Fisherman's Wharf. 45 minutes; $4.75.

* PACIFIC BELL PARK. Two operators offer game-day rides directly to Pacific Bell Park.

Golden Gate Ferry: From Larkspur. 45 minutes; $5.

Blue & Gold Fleet: From Oakland and Alameda. 45 minutes; $4.75.

* SAUSALITO. Two operators provide daily service to downtown Sausalito, which is packed with shops and restaurants and provides nice waterfront walking.

Golden Gate Ferry: From Ferry Building to El Portal and Park Streets in Sausalito. 30 minutes; $5.

Blue & Gold Fleet: From Pier 41 to El Portal and Park in Sausalito. 40 minutes; $6.