Ready for the Olympics - Salt Lake City, UT, host of the 2002 Olympic Winter Games - Brief Article

Sunset, Nov, 2001 by Virginia Rainey

From light rail and expanded freeways to fine arts, food, and a Vegas-scale hotel, Salt Lake City has a whole new feel

The cab ride from Salt Lake City International Airport to downtown had an unfamiliar feel--it was smooth, brief, and effortless. Was the driver going the right way? Suddenly, it hit me: After four years of orange construction barrels and major detours through and around the city, work on Interstate 15 and Interstate 80 was finished.

New freeways are just one of the major improvements in a town primed to host the 2002 Olympic Winter Games from February 8 to 24. Salt Lake City's stunning natural setting is now balanced by more sophistication downtown, including a new hotel and a fresh serving of restaurants. The next couple of months are a great time for an Olympic preview visit.

The "new" downtown

Just christened, the impressive Gateway complex--rising from a long-neglected sweep of railroad tracks and warehouses--is transforming the western edge of downtown. It is anchored by the great hail of the restored turn-of-the-century Union Pacific Railroad station, complete with original murals. An open, two-level pedestrian mall leads to shops, restaurants, movie theaters, and an Imax screen. By mid-2002, the Children's Museum of Utah and a planetarium will be up and running here.

Salt Lake's sleek new TRAX light-rail line stops right in front of the Gateway's main entrance, a block from the Olympic Medals Plaza. Hop on and ride to Temple Square, landmark gathering place of both Latter-day Saints and tourists. Beginning November 23, the square and its newly opened pedestrian plaza (formerly a block of Main Street) will shimmer with 1.5 million holiday lights.

Also downtown, on 300 South (Broadway), the newly completed Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center is simply dazzling, with an elegant glass facade and two state-of-the-art theaters. On stage, look for modern dance productions and cutting-edge theater. During the Olympics, the Tonight Show with Jay Leno will broadcast live from the center.

Start an evening at the Rose Wagner Center with dinner across the street at Metropolitan. An urban-chic spot with exquisite seasonal menus by young chef Jonathan Perno, it's one of several recently opened restaurants defying Salt Lake's formerly dull culinary reputation. From Colorado rack of lamb to risotto laced with Oregon black truffles, Metropolitan's menu is creative enough to earn the chef an invitation to New York's James Beard House this fall.

A fellow James Beard chef, Scott Blackerby excels at panroasting in the open kitchen at Bambara, an American bistro in a historic bank lobby on Main Street. Close by, the recently opened Third & Main Bar and Grill is an enticing stop for cocktails and chef Garry Maxwell's seasonal menus. Light touches of art deco give the sparely decorated room an uptown feel.

A few blocks to the south of downtown, the 775-room Grand America Hotel, which opened in March, rises like a copper-roofed mirage on Main Street. Behind a 24-story mass of white Bethel granite, this Las Vegas--scale hotel is layered with fine marble and French cherry furniture. Sink into a silk-upholstered chair and savor the ritual of afternoon tea, complete with sumptuous little pastries, in the hotel's Lobby Lounge.

Beyond downtown

TRAX trains now run only 15 miles south from downtown, but an east-west line opening in December will bring service to the University of Utah, new home to the Utah Museum of Fine Arts. With a red-and-brown brick exterior, "guava jam"--colored interior walls, and fabulous natural light, the museum is just a quick sprint from Rice-Eccles Olympic Stadium, site of the opening and dosing ceremonies.

Redevelopment ripples are also being felt in several charming shopping neighborhoods. One such gem is Emerson Heights, about 2 miles south of the university. It's worth a visit just to sample the Paris--an intimate new French-American-style bistro complete with zinc bar, soda fountain, and patisserie.

Although more will surely happen here before the opening ceremony of the Olympics, explore the new Salt Lake City now. By February, when the 10,000 members of the media arrive, it will no longer be a secret.

Travel planner

* LODGING

For a travel planner, contact the Utah Travel Council (800/200-1160 or www.utah.com).

Grand America Hotel. Tea served daily from 3 until 6. Ask about ski package. From $179. 555 S. Main; (801) 258-6000, (800) 621-4505, or www.grandamerica.com.

Hotel Monaco. Boutique-style hotel has 225 rooms. From $169. 15 West 200 South; (807) 595-0000, (877) 294-9710, or www.monacosaltlakecity.com.

Salt Lake City Marriott City Center. Opened last January next to the Gallivan Plaza ice skating rink, this 359-room hotel is in a great location. From $79. 220 S. State St.; (801) 961-8700, (866) 961-8700, or www.marriott.com/slccc.> * ATTRACTIONS

Gateway. Shopping, restaurants, entertainment. 400 West, between South Temple and 200 South; (801) 366-2160.

Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center. Programs this month include a production of Pride's Crossing through November 11; also symphony and dance. 138 West 300 South. (801) 323-6800; (801) 355-2787 for tickets.