Freeway-less in L.A

Sunset, Nov, 2001 by Matthew Jaffe

Location, location, location ... when it comes to seeing L.A., a little strategy pays off

* In 1989, I moved from San Francisco to Los Angeles with the kind of nervous anticipation I suspect human cannonballs feel just before the fuse is lit--I was being launched into the unknown. There was, however, a difference: When you land in L.A., there's no safety net.

Having lived in San Francisco for five years, I had been thoroughly indoctrinated in the gospel that L.A. is devoid of culture and history, and full of bionic babes, smog, and--most of all--freeways.

So, I made one critical decision: I would not move to a neighborhood that demanded a freeway commute. As it turns out, I found a Spanish-style apartment straight out of Raymond Chandler (he had lived a few blocks away) in a neighborhood described in real estate parlance as "Beverly Hills Adjacent." It was within walking distance of world-class art museums, lush parks, the La Brea Tar Pits, and the venerable Farmers Market.

The lesson in all this is that by strategically situating yourself--for the long term or for the weekend--you can experience the heart of one of the world's most vibrant and original cities and yet never tempt fate on a freeway.

Though there is no convenient neighborhood designation for the heart of L.A., it is bounded by La Brea Avenue on the east and the San Diego Freeway on the west, and it includes the city's Fairfax district and part of Hollywood, plus Beverly Hills and West Hollywood. Much of the action takes place along long boulevards rather than centering around traditional neighborhood hubs. It's a little fast and unapologetically unquaint.

The beauty of this slice of L.A. is that even as it comes alive with fine shopping and high art, there are also moments when the city unashamedly serves up its cliches. One thing this town has is star power. Within a mile of where I lived, I had chance encounters with the likes of Bruce Springsteen, Jerry Seinfeld, and Bill Clinton. And what the naysayers may choose to sneer at, Angelenos embrace as part of what makes the city unique. Southern California may be one of the top book-selling markets in the country, but walk along Melrose and you're bound to see a prime example of the city's notorious fixation on the shallow and physical, be it some sweet young thing reduced to tears by a bad pedicure (true story) or the loud boastings of an ab-baring Brad Pitt wannabe touting his new screenplay (starring himself) to his wheat grass--sipping friends.

Some days L.A. can definitely feel like a circus. But most of the time, it's just one of the greatest shows on Earth.

friday

Deli classic. Everyone has their favorite deli in L.A., but few dispute that Canter's (419 N. Fairfax Ave.; 323/651-2030) is the most famous--and it's open 24 hours a day.

Culture gulch. Wilshire Boulevard east of Fairfax is the city's museum row. Through January 6, the internationally renowned Los Angeles County Museum of Art (5905 Wilshire Blvd.; 323/857-6000) is featuring Jasper Johns to Jeff Koons: Four Decades of Art from the Broad Collections, on loan from L.A. mogul and philanthropist Eli Broad. On Fridays the museum stays open until 9 and has evolved into a singles scene for the smart set.

"But L.A. has no history." Actually there's plenty, and none older than the La Brea Tar Pits, one of the world's most significant Ice Age fossil sites. Tar pit discoveries, including wolf skulls and the remains of giant sloths, are on display at the George C. Page Museum (5801 Wilshire; 323/934-7243).

To Market. Angelenos pray that a new adjoining development won't change Farmers Market (6333 W. Third St.), one of the city's most beloved institutions. Down a po'boy at the Gumbo Pot (323/933-0358) or a gourmet BLT at Kokomo Cafe (323/933-0773) before grabbing some dark chocolate--covered graham crackers at Littlejohn's English Toffee (323/936-5379).

To live and dine in L.A. Check out the latest in fusion cuisine at one of the city's most stylish restaurants, the Dodd Mitchell-designed Linq (8338 W. Third; 323/655-4555).

saturday

Worth the wait. Get in line with the locals at John O'Groats (10516 W. Pico Blvd.; 310/204-0692), where fabled biscuits and pancakes draw a crowd.

A La Brea day. The big, bruising onetime auto row on La Brea Avenue has evolved into a top destination for home furnishings stores and galleries between Wilshire Boulevard and Melrose Avenue.

A must crust. You can buy breads from La Brea Bakery (624 S. La Brea; 323/939-6813) at stores around town, but many Angelenos still make the pilgrimage to the original.

Get a handle on it. It's all in the details at Liz's Antique Hardware (453 S. La Brea; 323/939-4403), home to vintage doorknobs, cabinet handles, and fixtures.

Art for art's sake. The stretch between Second Street and Oakwood Avenue is home to several of the city's top galleries, including photo mecca Fahey/Klein Gallery (148 N. La Brea; 323/934-2250) and the diverse Jan Baum Gallery (170 S. La Brea; 323/932-0170).

Quick bites. Two L.A. originals offer a distinct choice for a casual lunch. Rita Flora (468 5. La Brea; 323/9383900) is a combination florist's shop and cafe with a good selection of salads and sandwiches. Although L.A. is really a burger town, since 1939 it's been hard to beat that first taut bite of the hot dogs at Pink's Famous Chili Dogs (709 N. La Brea; 323/931-4223).